Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Colby

Pages: 1 2 3 ... 51
1
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: January 03, 2018, 09:44 PM »
Originally posted by cluelessk
My car is doing the same thing.

Worst part is that a porous block is a common issue on my build year.
Porous Block... aka bad casting and cheap manufacturing... You spend tens of thousands on a vehicle only for it to be made ****tily.. SMH

2
Journals / Meet "Good Peanut Butter II", my Mk6 GTI
« on: January 03, 2018, 09:41 PM »
any chance you can pick the large thumbnail size for your images???? My country internet can't download them :(

3
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 29, 2017, 11:53 PM »
Here are some better shots of the hatch!!!!! Shoved in the back is my Jack, Jack Crank, Inverter, Booster Cables, Portable Air Compressor, FatMax kit, Shovel, and Torque Wrench. All of that plus the Audio Equipment!












4
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 29, 2017, 01:07 AM »
Over the last few days I have been working on the subwoofer install. Ill take some better photos tomorrow!

The basics are...

4AWG power Line with a 150Amp Mini ANL fuse. 4AWG ground line. Remote Trigger Line. Knu Knocepts RCA's. Bass Knob Cat5/6 Cable.

Hifonics Brutus 1200.1D Mono Amp. Focal K2 E-30-KX 12" 4 Ohm DVC Woofer. 1.3 CU FT Sealed Box.

I fabbed the box, back in the spring, to be the max size allowable. Betting that the displacement of the woofer and some sound dampening would make it roughly the ideal size. It took a few days to figure out a size and design that worked but in the end it came to life. I originally wanted to mount the amp on the face of the box near towards the front of the vehicle but I was about 6 inches short on the length of the power wire to do it properly and safely. Plus that was the lazy way out anyways. Using the form factor I cut a platform out with enough area for the heat fins to allow air flow to dissipate the heat that may build up.

Over the last few days I have been working on the subwoofer install. Ill take some better photos tomorrow!

The basics are...

4AWG power Line with a 150Amp Mini ANL fuse. 4AWG ground line. Remote Trigger Line. Knu Knocepts RCA's. Bass Knob Cat5/6 Cable.

Hifonics Brutus 1200.1D Mono Amp. Focal K2 E-30-KX 12" 4 Ohm DVC Woofer. 1.3 CU FT Sealed Box.

I fabbed the box, back in the spring, to be the max size allowable. Betting that the displacement of the woofer and some sound dampening would make it roughly the ideal size. It took a few days to figure out a size and design that worked but in the end it came to life. I originally wanted to mount the amp on the face of the box near towards the front of the vehicle but I was about 6 inches short on the length of the power wire to do it properly and safely. Plus that was the lazy way out anyways. Using the form factor I cut a platform out with enough area for the heat fins to allow air flow to dissipate the heat that may build up. For the install, the box is bolted to the spare tire mount and its is caulked to prevent air escaping, the woofer wires are caulked too!





You can kind of see the amp on the platform back there.

Originally the sub had a small airleak and was whistling. I put some foam tape to make a gasket under the mating surfaces and it sealed up perfectly. I also foam taped the wood platform in the back to help dampen and rattle/vibration points. Colin got me some "insulation" to put in the box. I used the Super 77 and glued it all around the inside of the box.



At first I didn't have the bass knob hooked up, since I couldn't find a good place for it. Today I did! Its tucked away in the driver side fuse panel door. It will need some proper double sided tape, but for now looped electrical will have to do!



The hatch looks just as clean as it did before with everything tucked under the platform. One day I will paint or stain the box and amp platform to give it some more curb appeal. Until then, I need to add in some platform supports and that will be all for the hatch project!




There will be better photos in a few days too!

5
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 26, 2017, 11:35 PM »
I threw in a new battery the other day. OEM is 550 CCA's @ -18°C, New one is 680CCA's @ -18°C. The original battery was dropping to about 280-300ish CCA's on the load tester at -10°C and its average voltage was 12.1 Volts... some of the casing was ever so slightly bulging, I suspect I may have gotten a slight freeze at one point. The new one cranked it over this AM (-30°C) like it was +30°C out.

I Ran the RCA's and Remote wire to the back of the vehicle today. More on this tomorrow.

@Ctown8  got me some speakers for my sisters truck, It was almost plug and play. Some minimal stripping, taping, and screwing required.... YES, I am talking about the speaker install :P It went well. It was only 15 Minutes for the second side once I figured out the tricks to removing the door panel! Thanks as always Colin!!!!

6
Automotive Gallery / Post a Pic of your car.
« on: December 24, 2017, 01:07 AM »

7
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 23, 2017, 10:08 PM »
Originally posted by #StreetFocus
Just can't go wrong with @BRAUDIO Sounds like a good setup, go get some pics right meow.

I guess its good that there is nothing to take photos of, it looks 90% OEM!

Today I picked up the last of the subwoofer install stuff. Wiring, fuses, and such.

I also picked up a PAC TR7. The Pioneer Decks require a Double Pulse from the E/Hand brake in order to play DVD's. I wired in the TR7 and found a Disney Singalong to test it with. After testing 4 different programming methods I realized that I was the Issue. It is actaully very easy and straight forward. The unit now believes it is always in Park!

Here is a photo of how it all sits for the cockpit!



I also ran the remote wire and the sub RCA's to the passenger seat for now. When I get into the Sub install next week I will properly tuck them into the sills.

The hardest part of the next stage will be running the Power Line followed up with creating some supports for the sub box and rear hatch wood "floor" that I made this past summer.




More Next Week! Happy Holidays all!

8
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: December 21, 2017, 10:46 PM »
The jets got a point tonight! St Louis Lost! Nashville Lost! Tampa won :(

We are in a 5 Way tie for second with Tampa 6 pts ahead with 2 less games played..... They can get Helle****ed

9
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 19, 2017, 11:21 PM »
Originally posted by alohaimmatt
Let me know how you like the AVH-2300NEX, that's what I was looking into for replacing this god awful headunit that Subaru makes.

So far, with limited usability (I havnt connected the Parking Brake wire so it is currently always in "drive" mode), its better than any headunit I have ever used. Once I have the full capability of it, I imagine it will be even better.

Id give it a solid 9/10, only for the fact that you cant do an "easy" bypass.

It has some cool tuning capabilities that I dont know how to use properly... but Colin thinks they are cool, so I will believe him :P

If you wanted to check it out, give me a shout!


10
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 18, 2017, 09:00 PM »
UPDOOT! No Pics though :(

I stopped by @BRAUDIO the other week and FINALLY picked up the other half of the audio build for the Forester from @Ctown8 . We have a AVH-2300NEX 7" Deck, Focal 2Way... somethings... I dont remember... and a ton of harnesses to bypass/integrate everything that we could.

Simply saying that Colin "helped" with the wiring/install and build is so much of an understatement. I couldnt have done it as easily/clean or timely without his help and expertise... quite possibly not at all. So big shoutout to him and BRAudio.

I was driving along this past week and out of nowhere the audio got fuzzy, cut out and died. It then came back at full volume out of one speaker and was blaring random electrical noise. It turns out that the pin connector for the Sound Processor under my seat had gotten wet and was shorting out. I yanked the connectors and left it alone for a few days.

Saturday, with the help of Colin we tore into the audio build. Yanking the OEM deck, Pulling the drivers seat and sound processor. Removing the front tweeters and 6x9's, the rear tweeters and 5 1/4's. Colin and Chrissy worked through the wiring to bypass and jumper the multiple OEM harnesses and create a singular working harness.

The two of them got the Deck in without any issues, steering controls all functioning and an extra USB port ran.

We made MDF brackets for the front 6.5" Focals and ABS brackets for the tweeters. Everything fit fairly flawlessly. I have to say that it was the cleanest install I have ever done for a setup. You wouldnt know that anything has been changed until you hear the speakers.

I was able to use my old Infinity Kappa's that were 6.5" with a massive tweeter for the rear doors. That was a huge plus in my books to resuse that old gear from the "Van Days". We had a few troubled moments along the way making them work, but in the end, they function perfectly.

The OEM system used the front 6x9's as subs to play lows, the rear 5 1/4's were filling in for the mids and the Tweeters hit the highs, although they were never "bright" enough to stand out IMO. Now with how its set up, the 6.5's all around hit the mids beautifully, the tweeters are bright and noticeable with the right music. It is a more fulfilled sound than before, much clearer with greater fidelity. The only issue is that I dont have the sub in yet! As of now I am missing my lows, but that will change over the holiday break I imagine!



OH! I also installed a Fumoto Valve last OCI. It should make the next change 100% toolless and a breeze.

11
Journals / Tomika the WRX
« on: December 15, 2017, 06:15 AM »
#potatoproblems

12
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: December 11, 2017, 02:25 PM »
Originally posted by #StreetFocus
Apparently I'm getting a free google home. I don't even know what to use it for.
The radio ad says it can play music... soooo I guess you are an audiophile now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

13
Off Topic / The Photography Thread
« on: December 10, 2017, 10:03 PM »
Small Dump of Random Stuff I've Taken... Mostly Hockey










14
Off Topic / The Tattoo Thread
« on: December 10, 2017, 09:30 PM »



Finished the band yesterday. I took it after the session, as you can see its still a bit red in the coloured version of the photo

15
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 03, 2017, 10:54 PM »
Originally posted by Igor
@Colby

have you seen this? https://www.amsoil.com/lander/lspi-update/

"Proving it can protect turbocharged direct-injected engines, AMSOIL achieved 100 percent protection against LSPI in the engine test required by the GM dexos1® Gen 2 specification."

That is cool. Perhaps that what Ill use for the next interval

16
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: December 03, 2017, 01:26 PM »
Yet another LSPI update. Turns out I grabbed the wrong Quaker State oil.... it was the old formula, however it still behaves better than the calcium filled PUP(Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) Dexos 1.

So I ordered the Motul... turns out that the company fullfilling the order dinked around. It isn’t what I ordered at all, so that week wait was for nothing.

I did some VOA research on BITOG regarding Dexos 1 Gen 2 oils.

Turns out that the Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30’s have G2 license’s since they reformulated to be compliant.

I chose to do the PP D1G2, it’s almost the same as the QSUD D1G2, it has lower Ca. The QSUD arguably is a better Oil with better antiwear and lube packets.

Anywho, I loaded this new oil up. For the last 200kms it has been volatile as ****. Its almost as if the ECU is torn between pulling timing and advancing it. It has been leveling out with the more miles I put on it, I guess as the oils balance, the calcium’s gets pulled from the cylinders and such. I had the first highway drive today with NO FKL or DAM drop, ever! I am pretty pumped. I have yet to test the city portion as I have been ripping around in Sport and Manual to keep the motor out of the Low Speed area.

Sooo, Woohoo! The car is boosting to 21PSI! It’s tuned for 19, so we have to get that down. But loads, AFR, LSPI are all becoming acceptable!


On another note, we did some hose clamp mods on Matt’s WRX/Tomika. They worked well and solved a small leak! I wish my Foz snapped and popped like yours does dude. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

17
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: November 24, 2017, 10:02 PM »
Next minor update in an attempt to help stop the LSPI.

I spent a fair amount studying oil reports and forums. We all know everyone is an expert on the internet :P 

I did a half assed oil change today. I swapped out the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the Quaker State Advanced Durability 5w-30, Its a Dexos 1 Gen 2 spec'd oil. The new spec, Gen 2, is designed specifically for LSPI/ DI engines. With low calcium and more of a Magnesium/Moly base as a detergent/friction modifier, they have around 1000PPM (or even lower in some cases) vs 2500PPM for most oils.

The LSPI is still there, considering its only been one drive, I doubt Ill see to much difference. I didnt swap the filter either, so there will still be some higher calcium in the system. But, the biggest change is how the motor is reacting. LSPI is still around, but it seems to be much less aggressive, and the ECU is attempting to advance the timing more.

I'l report more once I get into the new Motul oil.



On a non-tuning issue note. My block heater tripped the GCFI at home for the last few times. I decided to get pricing on replacing it, thinking it had gone bad in the block. The FA block has it behind the exhaust manifold. You have to remove a subframe, drop the exhaust manifold, disconnect the turbo charger and intake, drain the turbo charger oil feed, and drain the coolant system. Its reportedly only 2.5 hours at the dealer which is around $350 at shop rate plus the $250 for a new block heater. Some people have been charged as much as $1200 for it to be installed...

Long story short, the cord was shorted out internally and was sending 120 volts to the chassis. It was a 45 minute job to unbutton everything, diagnose, cut out bad section, splice in new, and reassemble. She is as good as new now.

18
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 23, 2017, 10:03 PM »
Originally posted by #StreetFocus
MY CAR IS FINALLY LEGAL BUT THERE IS NO FNL! lel
Excuses, excuses

19
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 23, 2017, 09:54 PM »
Originally posted by #StreetFocus
Such a good guyColby is. Looking out for everyone. GG

Ill grab anything you have at the border......... IF YOU COME TO ****ING FNL

20
Journals / The Foz - The Do All Daily
« on: November 23, 2017, 08:30 PM »
I am on Rev 3 currently. The LSPI knock is still happening. WOT pulls are 100% clean, no issues or any chance of harm.

The LSPI happens mostly because the CVT "lugs" the motor. It aims to keep the RPM's between 1300 and 2000 at any given time, depending on the speed. I did a bunch more reading and it turns out that Pennzoil is heavy on the calcium, a detergent, as their line of products is supposed to keep things clean and sludge free. Rumor has it that Calcium is a major contributor to LSPI. Motul has released a new oil that is designed specifically for DI engines. BrenTuning has seen proven results with it, so I am going to give it a shot. It is supposed to also improve MPG and keep the engine just as clean as any other oil... Only time will tell I guess. I'd rather do a cleaning additive every second or third change than have it run like poo.

I have also done a EGR "Delete". By simply removing the solenoid's connector it locks the EGR valve shut. By doing this is has almost cut the LSPI Knock in half for the most part.

21
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 23, 2017, 07:39 PM »
@Igor any oil orders for you??

@alohaimmatt Ok, Ill grab you a box of them!

22
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 23, 2017, 07:36 PM »
Originally posted by alohaimmatt
I am here

Are you familiar with the Oil company, Motul?

They formulated a new oil designed for Direct Injection motors. Apparently it is amazing at combating LSPI, which our motor loves to do. Not only is it great for LSPI it is even more effective than most oils at its lubricity and it is said to bump you in economy by about 2-3 MPG... The LSPI has been proven by a few shops, the MPG is just reviews that I found.

Its the Motul 8100 ECO-Lite 5w-30. Its pretty frickin new so its hard to come by here in Canada and what I did find was $85/5L jug. I found a Amazon.com tuning store selling them. 4X5L jugs for $45. I'm picking myself up 2 packs, so 8 Jugs. Did you want me to grab you a box of them?

23
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 23, 2017, 07:28 PM »
@alohaimmatt Hey, You around here?

24
Off Topic / Border Runs
« on: November 23, 2017, 07:28 PM »
Originally posted by carterjalil
Anybody doing a run sometimes next week?
Thx
Originally posted by Stefan
Also wondering

Im heading down Dec 8 or Dec 10 at the latest. Possibly sooner depending on when everything shows up

25
Off Topic / Random chat
« on: November 17, 2017, 09:52 PM »
Jets game at 2:00 Tomorrow, Santa Claus Parade on at 2:00ish tomorrow... Portage is closed at 1:30... **** me its going to be ****ty to drive downtown tomorrow

Pages: 1 2 3 ... 51