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Topics - Vex

Pages: 1
1
Exterior / 88 Supra Turbo Hood - $50
« on: May 29, 2017, 10:19 PM »
Selling a red hood off an 88 supra. No major dents or damage, but the paint is very bad. It will need new paint.

Good spare hood, or something to clean up. I'll post pics tomorrow.

$50

2O425O8879

2
In need of a r154 clutch release hub.  part number is 31231-14040, in quite a rush. Name a price.

Text: 2zero4 2five0 88seven9

3
Engine & Transmission / 2JZ-GE auto to R154
« on: October 22, 2016, 07:47 PM »
I have a 2jz-ge Auto that I'm trying to swap for a manual. Any manual, it's not major horsepower car so I don't need anything fancy. However, I happened to obtain a r154, which really is over the top for me. Not to mention it will take major $$$ to bolt up. It will need a 1jz bell housing, 1jz flywheel, and possibly a 7mgte clutch. I have an old 7MGTE clutch, but it will probably be out the door soon.

Should I just attempt to trade the r154 for a mkiv supra/is300 w58 that will bolt up? Or spend the $$ for 1jz stuff?

4
Vehicle Part-out / 1988 MkIII supra turbo - Engine Parts only
« on: October 16, 2016, 10:35 AM »
The car is completely gutted and only have engine related parts left. If you have a 7M-GTE and need parts, this is a gold mine.

Current list of parts
Turbo manifold: $100
Clutch/Pressure plate: $250
Fly wheel: $100 ($300 for flywheel and clutch assembly)
7mgte timing cover: $50
Entire intake manfold: $100
Thermostat housing: $20
Starter motor: $50
o2 sensor: $50
Cam gears: $20
Alternator: $60
OEM Fuel rail w/ injectors: $100

Everything is OBO

$400 for all.

5
In need of a manual transmission for a 2jz. I'm looking to keep it around $500 and don't need a fancy 6 speed getrag. Preferably a w58, this came off a bunch of cars including sc300s, mrk3 supra, and mrk4 supras.

If you got, please send a PM

6
Engine, Drivetrain and Exhaust / LF: 1987 to 1990 Bronco II driveshaft
« on: September 04, 2016, 02:19 PM »
I am looking for this drive shaft. If you have one in good condition, i'll buy it off you!

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1058_1987_to_1990_bronco_ii_rear_cv_driveshaft_1310_series_replac.html
For example

7
YEAR, MAKE & MODEL: 1976 BMW 2002 - w/ 1978 bmw 320i parts car
CURRENT MILEAGE (SPECIFY KMS OR MILES): Unknown - Says 700km on odometer (It's not stuck), registered as 700km but not sure.
COLOR (EXT/INT):Black, navy
TRANSMISSION:4 Speed manual w/ 5speed manual from parts car
CONTACT VIA (E-mail, PM, phone number, etc.):204 250 8879
PRICE (MUST STATE A PRICE, IS IT FIRM OR OBO?):1800obo
IS THE VEHICLE SAFETIED:Hahah no

OPTIONAL INFORMATION:
2002
  • Fully original - everything. From tires, to sparks plugs, it has everything original
  • No key, the ignition cylinder is cut off - No, this is not a stolen car. It is in my name, and I have a TOD. This was done at some point in it's life out in the field. All keys/Ignition can be replaced from the parts car and it currently has a make shift ignition switch installed
  • Electronics all work, and car runs/drives just fine.
  • Rotted rockers, and rear quarters. These could be taken from the parts car and welded on to fit.
  • Original manual, and BMWCCA application form (pretty neat collector item)
320i
  • Same motor - complete bolt up
  • 5 speed upgrade - Bolts on
  • Brand new carb, weber 32 ich with brand new matching intake
  • new fuel pump
  • New coil pack
  • New headers, with entire upgraded exhaust (will fit with some modification to the 2002)
  • Leather seats that will fit in the 2002 (I believe they were from an e36)
  • Complete lock set to switch with the 2002
  • Another set of tires that bolt up - winter rubber
  • New badges that fit in

CLEAN TITLE:Yes

HISTORY OF ACCIDENTS? (IF YES, DETAILS):None

HISTORY OF PAINT/BODYWORK? (IF YES, DETAILS):None by me but it very odd how the paint is. It's clearly not factory black, but the vin says it factory black. Maybe just ****ty 70s painting?

MODIFICATIONS DONE TO VEHICLE:Replaced fuel pump, coil pack, ignition switch. Have all originals.

PICTURES:
2002:



(This does come with the original carb cover/filter)

I have the original seats but it has a hole and they arent made of foam, they have this weird straw filler.

320i







8
Journals / 1976 BMW 2002 - Resto mod
« on: August 10, 2016, 10:10 PM »
So I just picked up this BMW 2002. I have a full parts car and will be doing a full resto mod. The previous owner fried the harness but only a small portion.

It's fully original, not sure how many KM but the odometer says 700.

It currently needs:

Fixed locks
Fixed wiring
Rot repair (rockers, and rear driver side quarter)
Ignition switch replaced
5 speed swap
New carb swap

Pictures:




9
REQUIRED INFORMATION
YEAR, MAKE & MODEL:2000 forester st/b
CURRENT MILEAGE (SPECIFY KMS OR MILES):48000km
COLOR (EXT/INT):silver EXT black INT
TRANSMISSION:manual
CONTACT VIA (E-mail, PM, phone number, etc.):2042508879 (only text please)
PRICE (MUST STATE A PRICE, IS IT FIRM OR OBO?):7750 obo
IS THE VEHICLE SAFETIED:Yes

OPTIONAL INFORMATION:Non modified, 99% factory except for a boost guage, frost plug, and DRL mod ( to pass safety)

Issues:Bobbing idle, which will be fixed by a tune.

CLEAN TITLE:Yes

HISTORY OF ACCIDENTS? (IF YES, DETAILS):None

HISTORY OF PAINT/BODYWORK? (IF YES, DETAILS):none

MODIFICATIONS DONE TO VEHICLE:Boost guage, frost plug, DRL mod ( Paper clip jump)

PICTURES:



10
As title says, name your price.

204 250 8879

11
Engine, Drivetrain and Exhaust / Lf: Someone to weld an exhaust
« on: May 01, 2016, 03:15 PM »
Done. Close please

12
I have both yokes and the bar but need it cut and welded to the proper length. Let me know what you want for rates. 204 250 8879

13
Engine, Drivetrain and Exhaust / LF: W58 transmission
« on: April 27, 2016, 05:27 PM »
I am looking for a w58 transmission. They can be found on a bunch of Lexus/toyota cars (and supra obviously), if you got one laying around, I'd love to buy it. Bell housing, and clutch would be bonus.

14
Other for Sale/Wanted/Trade / FS: Royal Purple 5w30 5Q
« on: March 13, 2016, 11:14 AM »
I am selling my jug of Royal Purple 5w30 5Q. I lost the receipt and after getting a new vehicle that does not run this oil, I have no use for it. $20

2042508879
Text please, don't call. (Oh god, having to talk to people *shivers*)

15
Screw it, I need the cash.

Price for both: $130

I am selling my Stanley Fatmax 229 tool set AND Mastercraft Maximum Impact Socket Set 38 peice. They are both brand new and never opened. These both have lifetime warranties. I can deliver.

Pics:


16
Edit: Combining my two threads. You can close this one.

17
Please close, selling later.

18
As my title says. It's completely mint, barely used. One controller. Original box/Receipt.

19
Cars for Sale/Wanted/Trade / CLOSED
« on: September 10, 2015, 11:43 PM »
Please Close

20
Close pleeeaaasseee

21
Journals / 1984 Mazda RX7 GSL - 2JZ swap!?
« on: June 24, 2015, 02:51 AM »
Update: It's running and driving. You can read further here

So, this is the start of my journal for my 84 GSL RX7.

I was browsing my Youtube subscription feed when the "Zero ****s given" RX7. It was love at first sight <3, the stance, the roar, the "**** you, get out of my way" factor just sold me completely with these cars. I knew I had to get my own so I saved my laundry quarters and bought it off @bradenpurchase

Here it is currently (Last updated: October 7 2016)





Anyways, I got it in the cold of winter and parked it. Here it was from day one.

Here is the before:

List of mods that I remembered off the top of my head...

  • 13b swap
  • webber 48ida carb
  • Fuel pump upgrade
  • Tokico Illumina
  • Some alternate rims (no idea what they are)
  • Boss kit





It had a few issues
  • 1) The aftermarket fuel pump he had installed was running on a separate circuit and used it's own fuse block and directly ran from the fuse to fuel pump. Making it never turn off.
Simple switch install fixed that (I never did install it properly from the ignition but this way works too).
  • 2)Coolant leak
Just a loose hose
  • 3)Diff leak
Loose bolt  :unamused:
  • 4)Engine oil leak
This was a mix of loose bolts and ****ty gasket. In my attempts to tighten said bolts, I over tightened one and snapped it off fml. Drilling attempt did not help. After 4+ hours of laying under the car drilling, I gave up and made a steel bar with a slight bend that would press against the gasket over that missing bolt. (No pics unfortunately). I made a new gasket and installed the new plate, and it worked. No leaks anywhere.

This was one of my first runs with it after the winter.
https://www.instagram.com/p/0vpcLCu40m


Holy **** was this thing fun. It sure drew attention.



The fun died off quickly though with the problems it would bring up.
  • The idle would like to flip **** at random and die. No matter how much tuning I did to the carb (even with the plugs being perfectly brown).
  • It would over heat constantly. Idle for 5 mins? Over heat.
Sometimes it got a little embarrassing to start it up in front of people and have it idle like **** or hardly start.

So after a bunch of thought and research, it was either EFI swap this thing or a complete motor swap. I went against EFI swapping it, as
  • Rotaries have a short life and need constant expensive care.
  • Replacement parts are hard to find
  • Parts to do an EFI swap will be next to impossible to find.
  • Much more resources for regular piston motors.

So I picked up a 2JZ-GE non turbo w/ auto tranny. Why?
I like them
Because race car
JDM as ****
Also, I hear they're pretty fast  ;)

Here it is.


My dad was pretty surprised when I brought this home. He didn't expect an inline 6.



So it was time to remove the old motor.

Bye bye hood


Bye bye coolant





This picture skips 3 days of riping apart the engine harness and removing 90% of the wiring. But it's out.


Now that the engine bay is cleared of the old motor, wiring, piping, other junk it's time to prep.

I started of with the cross member. I at first thought I would need to make a complete cross member from scratch and motor mounts but I figured I wouldn't need to. If I flip the cross member around and use the mounts from the donor car, it'll be fine.
So I started with removing the cross member


Now that it's out, lets fabricate it. I'll start with cutting the old mounts off.



What I didn't picture, was me cutting off the actual mounting points to the frame and flipping them backwards/switching places. I got them re-welded, here's the final product.


It was actually clipping the center link (the picture above was with the steering cranked completely sideways)

After some minor trimming...



I also chopped off the headers.

but now it was what I thought was ready.

I was planning to line it up over the cross member drill a hole and freed the bolt through in one afternoon  :lol:


I'm not the one looking majestic as ****

The problem was the brake cylinder, it was facing width wise of the car and it was directly in the way. So I tried to flip it, but that's harder than I expected. So we put the motor back and I was defeated for that day.

That quickly turned into 2-3 weeks of lifting in and out 5-6 times, drilling 2 wrong holes, and moving that brake cylinder.

Here it is sitting loose in the engine bay. It was at this point I knew it was gonna be possible. It's so much more intimidating and soul crushing sitting outside of the engine bay.

As you can see, hood will not clear. Like at all. I knew this buying this motor. It's a tiny car with a giant motor.

So, here it is mounted (wrongly) for the first time


See how far forward it is? Yeah. This would work but it wasn't done right. The correct place was 1 1/2 inch backwards, off of the bar FML.

So I made an extension.

Motor came out, cross member came out (much easier the second time knowing how to do it)

So I got it in, and wow. Was it ever a perfect fit. Everywhere. The oil pan form fit the cross member, the original fan fit, the vacuum lines weren't being crushed, there was room for twisting.

Mazda, are you sure you didn't intend for a 2JZ to be put in there?

So, now I got a mounted motor but till this point the transmission has been sitting on wooden blocks.

It time to unite the motor with it's new owner.

There was 2 issues, the mounts on the frame were a bit backwards from the transmission mounts. and it was also higher. So I had to offset this.

It was simple in concept but a pain in the ass to do. I took a steel bar and a metal spacer and drilled 2 holes for the frame, and 1 for the transmission mount.
This took a while, and many trips to Rona but it held itself in.

Here it sits today.



LOOK AT ALL THE ROOM FOR TURBOS

You can read further here[/i]

22
Closed

Decided to keep, this swap will actually work out.

24
Newbies / New to the club...
« on: January 05, 2015, 02:37 PM »
So, this my newbie post. I'll start with filling out that form from the sticky.

-Name: Garrett
-Where you're from: Lockport area (Narol)
-Type of car you drive:  Nothing fancy at all. 06 Cobalt LT but I'm on the hunt for an 80-85 Rx7
-What you can contribute to the community: As of right now, nothing. I'm just starting everything out, trying to get a whip and see where I'll go with that. Hopefully more down the road I'll be helpful.
-What you'd like to learn from the community: Pretty much everything, I'm not a car expert (I do know a fair amount though) but I love learning new things and why not hop right into the middle of it?
-Interests: Computers and cars. I'm currently a computer science major at U of M and I'm trying to get into the car scene a bit here.
-Pictures of your car: You want a picture of my car? Ha I'm too lazy to go out in the cold to take a picture of my stock cobalt. I'm sure you can picture it in your heads.

Anyways, hopefully I'll find the right car by this summer and I can be more of an asset to this forum. Hell, maybe even this forum will help me get started out too.

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