Author Topic: The Foz - The Do All Daily  (Read 10131 times)

June 03, 2017, 08:35 PM #150

Colby Offline

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Took the foz to JP Subaru this week for the CVT fluid change. I tried to bargain off my future first born. $450 for the service and oil. OUCH! But, it was quick service, they didnt do anything more or less and didnt hammer on it during the road test. Considering I'm set for another 100,000kms, $450 isnt that bad.

We worked on Matts Forester. TLDR. Its fixed!

He was full on ready for a MT swap, I told him to hold his horses, lets pull the pan and see if something is wrong internally. That lead to him sourcing a tranny from Subaru Gerry, I did a bunch of cross referencing on the USDM vs JDM, Phase 1 vs Phase 2, Studying what solenoids can be swapped and or boughten. Turns out its like $300 or so for a solenoid. Gerry hooked us up at $400 for a USDM 4EAT. The plan was to swap it in if needed.

After work on Monday we dropped the Automatic Trans Oil Pan. This was my first time in a trans, so it was touch and go for me, but I do know subarus.. Luckily Matt has been in a VW for sometime and has had lots of trans experience... but not autos. We dropped the pan, fluid went everywhere. The previous owner had been in it and Red RTV'd the **** out of the pan gasket. Goop everywhere. The oil was brown and burnt, but there was very little trans wear. After cleaning ourselves and the area up, we got to take a peak at the Solenoid Valve body/block. Where he hit a rock and bent the pan during the offroading venture, was the Clutch solenoid. Sheard the connector off and there was no way to repair it. So we grabbed fluids, filters, food, did an oil change on his forester and dinked around until Gerry got home and then we used my grocery getter to pick up the new-to-us transmission. The one we grabbed was the same tranny, but was a minor revision. He had a S1AA, and we got a C2AA. We got back to the shop around midnight, stripped the new tranny, pulled the new 2-4 Clutch Shift Solenoid, tested it and installed. What we didnt realize was that RTV takes 24 hours before its cured... damn. I layed a nice thin gasket out of Black RTV, and we reinstalled everything.

The next day we filled the transmission up with Castrol Transmax, took it for a rip around the block. The transmission is shifting again, smoother than when he got the car.

He now has a parts transmission and might even be willing to sell parts if anyone needs for a Phase 2 4EAT.

Back to The Foz, I have started the audio portion of the build. Subwoofer box is built and curing as I type. More to come on this as I tackle it slowly
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    The Foz - The Do All Daily
    « Reply #150 on: June 03, 2017, 08:35 PM »

    June 05, 2017, 12:33 PM #151

    Ctown8 Offline

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    Originally posted by Colby

    Back to The Foz, I have started the audio portion of the build. Subwoofer box is built and curing as I type. More to come on this as I tackle it slowly
    WOO!
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    I work at Brian Reimer Audio on St. Marys, come in for some good deals, ask for Colin.
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      July 07, 2017, 09:26 PM #152

      Colby Offline

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      Nothing more than a small tuning and maintenance update for The Foz this time.

      I changed the Differential fluids today with Castrol 75-90 Full Synthetic, first time doing this so I am not sure on how to "read" the oil and residues. Interestingly, both front and rear diffs were low. I am unsure how much oil gets eaten or escapes through the breather, but I'd wager they were at 75% of full. Boy, were they black and throughly used; The front looked like it may have had some water dilution too. It almost looked like it was grease in spots on the magnets...

      Engine Oil was changed at 7,000 instead of 10 and it was real bad. I suspect it was from all the hard driving since I started the tuning with Torqued. A new fill of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and I should be good for the rest of the summer. Oh, also did another seafoam to the fuel to help clean the injectors and keep it running smooth. $12 piece of mind,

      We are on to Revision 17 of the map. The CVT and the FA20DIT is apparantly a **** combo, the trans lugs the motor and the DI is extremely tempermental with knocking. Whenever I use Manual or SIDrive - Sport Modes, there is next to nothing and it performs like the WRX would. The CVT is always keeping fuel economy in mind instead of running a safe RPM. Luckily the motor is extremely adaptable and versatile with the timing, AVCS, and knock strategies. The Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS is extremely consistant with its controlling and hasn't spiked more than .5 PSI. The stock controller had as much as 5 PSI for spikes - Target is 18 PSI, Achieved was 23 PSI. Overall the tune is about the same performance as the COBB OTS Stage 1, however its extremely safe on the tranny and the motor. Considering that I have added a few hundred pounds of weight, bigger tires, heavier wheels, reduced the aerodynamics and witht he tune she is a bit quicker than stock, Id say its a win-win. She isnt fast, but shes quick... enough. Torqued adjusts some stuff and the Feedback Knock goes wild, antoher and the Fine Knock goes crazy. Its like a magical balancing act that is fighting him with every revision.

      Most likely nothing more for a while, until the audio gets finished and I head out west for a weekend later in August/Sept
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        July 08, 2017, 04:10 AM #153

        Igor Offline

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        Wow that's a lot of revisions. You should post up some logs. I'm interested to see what's going on.


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          July 08, 2017, 08:33 AM #154

          Nirusan Offline

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          Originally posted by Igor
          Wow that's a lot of revisions. You should post up some logs. I'm interested to see what's going on.


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            November 09, 2017, 10:00 PM #155

            Colby Offline

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            WOW, I havent been here in a while!

            TTI has missed so much, Ill try to write it all down!...

            She is on Winters now.... Thats really about all :P

            I chose to change tuners to Bren Tuning. I probably should have gone to them first, but decided to cheap out. Oh well. We are two revisions in, and they immediatly tell me that something is wrong with the intake system. I need to check it out before we continue. (side note: same setup and build as the Torqued tune)

            This evening I tore apart the intake system, From MAF to Turbo, disassembling the BPV and Charge pipe. Removing the intercooler and all.  I have never done a tear down of the intake system before on this car so it was cool to pull it apart.

            I partially followed the "Danoz Clamp Fix" (http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f207/danoz-fix-fa20dit-turbo-clamps-318129/#/), I replaced every clamp instead of tightening some and replacing others. Almost every hose clamp was only finger tight and many of the flanges were mis-shapen from the OEM clamps. Each one was cleaned and reassembled.

            @Igor @Nirusan

            https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/wot?log=0&data=3-9
            https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/wot?log=1&data=3-9

            Here are two WOT logs, One before the intake system service and one after. Both on Bren Tune Rev 2.

            Here is a crusing log, BrenTuning, Rev 2 - https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/cruise-after-wot?log=0&data=8-24

            Here is one from the last Rev on the TP Tune - https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/tp-wot?log=0&data=7-21

            To me the tapering boost was not a factor of the tune but of a boost leak that Ive had for a while. It should taper but not by 7 psi, at least to my assumptions.

            So from here I'll keep playing and tuning with Bren and see how things go!
            Last Edit: November 09, 2017, 10:03 PM by Colby
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              November 10, 2017, 12:02 PM #156

              Igor Offline

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              Originally posted by Colby

              https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/wot?log=0&data=3-9
              https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/wot?log=1&data=3-9

              Here are two WOT logs, One before the intake system service and one after. Both on Bren Tune Rev 2.

              Here is a crusing log, BrenTuning, Rev 2 - https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/cruise-after-wot?log=0&data=8-24

              Here is one from the last Rev on the TP Tune - https://datazap.me/u/cspence47/tp-wot?log=0&data=7-21

              To me the tapering boost was not a factor of the tune but of a boost leak that Ive had for a while. It should taper but not by 7 psi, at least to my assumptions.

              So from here I'll keep playing and tuning with Bren and see how things go!

              Boost taper will depend on what your initial boost is and how much pressure your turbo could build. For example, my peak boost hits 21.5 at around 3400 rpms but tapers down to 13-14 by 5500 rpms. The turbo is just too small to keep up that pressure.

              Your cruise logs still show a lot of random feedback knock. Are you feeling the car pull timing like it did during during our drive to the rally? DAM is all over the place as well but I believe you mentioned that was because of the direct injection.
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                November 10, 2017, 11:32 PM #157

                Colby Offline

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                Originally posted by Igor
                Boost taper will depend on what your initial boost is and how much pressure your turbo could build. For example, my peak boost hits 21.5 at around 3400 rpms but tapers down to 13-14 by 5500 rpms. The turbo is just too small to keep up that pressure.

                Your cruise logs still show a lot of random feedback knock. Are you feeling the car pull timing like it did during during our drive to the rally? DAM is all over the place as well but I believe you mentioned that was because of the direct injection.

                I chatted some more with BrenTuning today. It turns out that the FA20DIT setups when properly running will compensate the amount of boost based on the ambient temperature. I have no idea how the Duty Cycle works, but it was at 71% and that somehow equals over 22 PSI. However in low temps such as -17, when I took that log, the ecu drops the boost because of the denser air. The turbo running at 13 PSI at -15C is equal to it running at 20PSI at +15C... If I understand it right and all things are roughly equal.

                With that being said BT wont tune the car until we are above +3C... soooo I may be waiting till spring to tune. We shall see how things unfold.

                Regarding the maintenance, It has solved the fueling issues that I was having with it and is running much more consistent.

                Its still pulling timing, but only on tip in/out throttle. Its no longer doing it when cruising!
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                  November 11, 2017, 01:56 PM #158

                  Igor Offline

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                  Originally posted by Colby
                  I chatted some more with BrenTuning today. It turns out that the FA20DIT setups when properly running will compensate the amount of boost based on the ambient temperature. I have no idea how the Duty Cycle works, but it was at 71% and that somehow equals over 22 PSI. However in low temps such as -17, when I took that log, the ecu drops the boost because of the denser air. The turbo running at 13 PSI at -15C is equal to it running at 20PSI at +15C... If I understand it right and all things are roughly equal.

                  With that being said BT wont tune the car until we are above +3C... soooo I may be waiting till spring to tune. We shall see how things unfold.

                  Regarding the maintenance, It has solved the fueling issues that I was having with it and is running much more consistent.

                  Its still pulling timing, but only on tip in/out throttle. Its no longer doing it when cruising!

                  yeah that's pretty standard. During the summer I've seen 22psi but during the winter I don't think my car has hit over 18psi. Colder air is more dense and requires less of it to reach the required number.

                  probably for the best too. I think you would want to log is warmer temps as hotter conditions might be more prone to knocking.
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                    November 11, 2017, 10:26 PM #159

                    Colby Offline

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                    Originally posted by Igor
                    yeah that's pretty standard. During the summer I've seen 22psi but during the winter I don't think my car has hit over 18psi. Colder air is more dense and requires less of it to reach the required number.

                    probably for the best too. I think you would want to log is warmer temps as hotter conditions might be more prone to knocking.

                    Ran another day on the BT Rev 2, still quite a bit of feedback and FKL... being that it was tuned with a leak and only rev 2, there is still lots left on the tables to clean up. However I consistently hit 18PSI today with Intake temps of 38F.

                    I swapped back to the last rev of the TP tune. It ran extremely well now that BT was able to diagnose the issue over the logs. Ill be running TP for the next little bit until BT gives me a cleaner rev or until the temps warm up enough to log and revise in the spring.
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                      November 12, 2017, 01:23 PM #160

                      Igor Offline

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                      Gonna be +3 on tuesday!


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                        November 13, 2017, 03:11 PM #161

                        Colby Offline

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                        Originally posted by Igor
                        Gonna be +3 on tuesday!


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                        Hit 20.50PSI today! BT Rev 2 is still super rough though. Hope to get a few revs in efore the cold comes back
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                          November 23, 2017, 08:30 PM #162

                          Colby Offline

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                          I am on Rev 3 currently. The LSPI knock is still happening. WOT pulls are 100% clean, no issues or any chance of harm.

                          The LSPI happens mostly because the CVT "lugs" the motor. It aims to keep the RPM's between 1300 and 2000 at any given time, depending on the speed. I did a bunch more reading and it turns out that Pennzoil is heavy on the calcium, a detergent, as their line of products is supposed to keep things clean and sludge free. Rumor has it that Calcium is a major contributor to LSPI. Motul has released a new oil that is designed specifically for DI engines. BrenTuning has seen proven results with it, so I am going to give it a shot. It is supposed to also improve MPG and keep the engine just as clean as any other oil... Only time will tell I guess. I'd rather do a cleaning additive every second or third change than have it run like poo.

                          I have also done a EGR "Delete". By simply removing the solenoid's connector it locks the EGR valve shut. By doing this is has almost cut the LSPI Knock in half for the most part.
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                            November 24, 2017, 10:02 PM #163

                            Colby Offline

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                            Next minor update in an attempt to help stop the LSPI.

                            I spent a fair amount studying oil reports and forums. We all know everyone is an expert on the internet :P 

                            I did a half assed oil change today. I swapped out the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the Quaker State Advanced Durability 5w-30, Its a Dexos 1 Gen 2 spec'd oil. The new spec, Gen 2, is designed specifically for LSPI/ DI engines. With low calcium and more of a Magnesium/Moly base as a detergent/friction modifier, they have around 1000PPM (or even lower in some cases) vs 2500PPM for most oils.

                            The LSPI is still there, considering its only been one drive, I doubt Ill see to much difference. I didnt swap the filter either, so there will still be some higher calcium in the system. But, the biggest change is how the motor is reacting. LSPI is still around, but it seems to be much less aggressive, and the ECU is attempting to advance the timing more.

                            I'l report more once I get into the new Motul oil.



                            On a non-tuning issue note. My block heater tripped the GCFI at home for the last few times. I decided to get pricing on replacing it, thinking it had gone bad in the block. The FA block has it behind the exhaust manifold. You have to remove a subframe, drop the exhaust manifold, disconnect the turbo charger and intake, drain the turbo charger oil feed, and drain the coolant system. Its reportedly only 2.5 hours at the dealer which is around $350 at shop rate plus the $250 for a new block heater. Some people have been charged as much as $1200 for it to be installed...

                            Long story short, the cord was shorted out internally and was sending 120 volts to the chassis. It was a 45 minute job to unbutton everything, diagnose, cut out bad section, splice in new, and reassemble. She is as good as new now.
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                              November 26, 2017, 01:55 AM #164

                              Igor Offline

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                              You could try doing an oil analysis to see how much calcium is actually in the system. Not sure how much that would actually tell you anything


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                                December 03, 2017, 01:26 PM #165

                                Colby Offline

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                                Yet another LSPI update. Turns out I grabbed the wrong Quaker State oil.... it was the old formula, however it still behaves better than the calcium filled PUP(Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) Dexos 1.

                                So I ordered the Motul... turns out that the company fullfilling the order dinked around. It isnít what I ordered at all, so that week wait was for nothing.

                                I did some VOA research on BITOG regarding Dexos 1 Gen 2 oils.

                                Turns out that the Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30ís have G2 licenseís since they reformulated to be compliant.

                                I chose to do the PP D1G2, itís almost the same as the QSUD D1G2, it has lower Ca. The QSUD arguably is a better Oil with better antiwear and lube packets.

                                Anywho, I loaded this new oil up. For the last 200kms it has been volatile as ****. Its almost as if the ECU is torn between pulling timing and advancing it. It has been leveling out with the more miles I put on it, I guess as the oils balance, the calciumís gets pulled from the cylinders and such. I had the first highway drive today with NO FKL or DAM drop, ever! I am pretty pumped. I have yet to test the city portion as I have been ripping around in Sport and Manual to keep the motor out of the Low Speed area.

                                Sooo, Woohoo! The car is boosting to 21PSI! Itís tuned for 19, so we have to get that down. But loads, AFR, LSPI are all becoming acceptable!


                                On another note, we did some hose clamp mods on Mattís WRX/Tomika. They worked well and solved a small leak! I wish my Foz snapped and popped like yours does dude. 


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                                  December 03, 2017, 03:56 PM #166

                                  Igor Offline

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                                  @Colby

                                  have you seen this? https://www.amsoil.com/lander/lspi-update/

                                  "Proving it can protect turbocharged direct-injected engines, AMSOIL achieved 100 percent protection against LSPI in the engine test required by the GM dexos1ģ Gen 2 specification."
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                                    December 03, 2017, 09:05 PM #167

                                    alohaimmatt Offline

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                                    Originally posted by Colby
                                    On another note, we did some hose clamp mods on Mattís WRX/Tomika. They worked well and solved a small leak! I wish my Foz snapped and popped like yours does dude. 

                                    Straight piped Foz incoming? :)

                                    Thanks again for the help!

                                    Like I mention, hit up Amazon support tomorrow morning. They'll definitely try to make the issue right, at the very least you should be able to return them all without any hassle!

                                      December 03, 2017, 10:54 PM #168

                                      Colby Offline

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                                      Originally posted by Igor
                                      @Colby

                                      have you seen this? https://www.amsoil.com/lander/lspi-update/

                                      "Proving it can protect turbocharged direct-injected engines, AMSOIL achieved 100 percent protection against LSPI in the engine test required by the GM dexos1ģ Gen 2 specification."

                                      That is cool. Perhaps that what Ill use for the next interval
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                                        « Reply #168 on: December 03, 2017, 10:54 PM »