Author Topic: House / Home / Renovations Thread  (Read 4794 times)

December 04, 2016, 04:47 PM #75

awd_ftw Offline

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Originally posted by Vince
Removing the existing feed from the house to the garage would be easy. You wouldn't have to even remove the wire out of the ground. You can just cut both ends and leave it be.

As for excavating, that sounds overkill. You can do it with a shovel. Depth for buried cable is like 16 or so inches, pretty much how deep a shovel head is. Then you just lay wood overtop of it to further protect it.

So I would just have to use a snake and pull the appropriate wire through? Would this cost appx $500-$1000 if I hired a electrician?
 
Originally posted by cluelessk
Could just a poor design. The person that installed our vents and ducts didn't put a cold air return in the main room of the basement. Only takes in air from upstairs and directly in the furnace room/under the stairs. It's impossible to get a consistent temp through the house.

Same with my home. Its 2-3 degrees cooler in the master bedroom than the main floor. The other rooms upstairs are 1-2 degrees cooler. An hvac tech suggested to install an inline fan in the master bdrm's duct, but would have to cut some drywall.

Ive been using a small heater in the master and its doing its job.
Last Edit: December 04, 2016, 04:49 PM by awd_ftw

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    « Reply #75 on: December 04, 2016, 04:47 PM »

    December 04, 2016, 10:48 PM #76

    Vince Offline

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    Originally posted by awd_ftw
    So I would just have to use a snake and pull the appropriate wire through? Would this cost appx $500-$1000 if I hired a electrician?

    You could only fish the wire through to your garage if the original feed was placed in conduit, if it's directly buried you wouldn't be able to simply pull a new one to your garage. It would be the definition of impossible.

    It would probably cost you around that to hire a company to come down and do it, but since I don't do residential, I'm not 100% sure what people charge.
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      December 05, 2016, 08:43 AM #77

      jordisonjr Offline

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      Originally posted by awd_ftw
      So I would just have to use a snake and pull the appropriate wire through? Would this cost appx $500-$1000 if I hired a electrician?
       
      Same with my home. Its 2-3 degrees cooler in the master bedroom than the main floor. The other rooms upstairs are 1-2 degrees cooler. An hvac tech suggested to install an inline fan in the master bdrm's duct, but would have to cut some drywall.

      Ive been using a small heater in the master and its doing its job.
      It's not unheard of to have heat loss like this in a master bedroom, especially if its above a garage. Think about it, in that scneario, you have 3 regions where heat loss can occur; roof, exterior walls, and the floor if its over a garage. I realize heat travels up, but your floor is above an unheated space so that will make a difference.

      Compare that to a main floor, your only heat loss is really through the exterior walls. The basement below is heated/insulated, and the second floor above you is heated and insulated as well. That's why they've made a change to Part 9 of the code this year, accounting for this. Wall/floor/roof assemblies require overal effective r-values for the entire assembly, that takes into account joist/wall stud/truss spacing, as well as the other materials. Where as before, you could stuff r20 in the walls and you were good to go.

      Originally posted by Madbuzz41
      I'm not a fan of blowing for a long time anyways ; )


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        December 10, 2016, 02:13 PM #78

        awd_ftw Offline

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        Originally posted by Vince
        You could only fish the wire through to your garage if the original feed was placed in conduit, if it's directly buried you wouldn't be able to simply pull a new one to your garage. It would be the definition of impossible.

        It would probably cost you around that to hire a company to come down and do it, but since I don't do residential, I'm not 100% sure what people charge.

        The wire is in a conduit.

        Originally posted by jordisonjr
        It's not unheard of to have heat loss like this in a master bedroom, especially if its above a garage. Think about it, in that scneario, you have 3 regions where heat loss can occur; roof, exterior walls, and the floor if its over a garage. I realize heat travels up, but your floor is above an unheated space so that will make a difference.

        Compare that to a main floor, your only heat loss is really through the exterior walls. The basement below is heated/insulated, and the second floor above you is heated and insulated as well. That's why they've made a change to Part 9 of the code this year, accounting for this. Wall/floor/roof assemblies require overal effective r-values for the entire assembly, that takes into account joist/wall stud/truss spacing, as well as the other materials. Where as before, you could stuff r20 in the walls and you were good to go.


        Yeah my master is not above the garage, I have a detached. The main living area is under my master. The air flow is piss poor to the master, while other rooms on the 2nd floor have decent air flow.  I've tried all sorts of combos closing dampers/registers but nothing will improve the air flow.


        Last Edit: December 10, 2016, 02:15 PM by awd_ftw

          December 10, 2016, 06:14 PM #79

          Vince Offline

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          Originally posted by awd_ftw
          The wire is in a conduit.
          What size is the conduit? Conductor sizes and amounts are restricted by the size of conduit they're in.
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            December 11, 2016, 06:38 PM #80

            awd_ftw Offline

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            Originally posted by Vince
            What size is the conduit? Conductor sizes and amounts are restricted by the size of conduit they're in.

            I'll have to double check my blueprints. The conduit coming from the garage look like 1/2 or 3/4 conduit.

              December 11, 2016, 09:54 PM #81

              themikewoo Offline

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              Need to buy two garage door openers. Any suggestions. I honestly have no idea in this area.

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                December 11, 2016, 10:45 PM #82

                Vince Offline

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                Originally posted by awd_ftw
                I'll have to double check my blueprints. The conduit coming from the garage look like 1/2 or 3/4 conduit.
                Even if it's 3/4" that's too small.. You can only put 3 #8's in a 3/4" conduit, which wouldn't even get you a 50A subpanel.
                Last Edit: December 11, 2016, 10:53 PM by Vince
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                  December 12, 2016, 08:14 AM #83

                  seanf Offline

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                  Originally posted by themikewoo
                  Need to buy two garage door openers. Any suggestions. I honestly have no idea in this area.

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                  Chamberlain/Lift Master/Craftsman They're all basically the same, for a basic garage door opener I would buy one of those. I usually end up with a Craftsman just because dealing with Sears parts department is fairly easy if I need replacements.

                    December 12, 2016, 08:43 AM #84

                    themikewoo Offline

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                    Originally posted by seanf
                    Chamberlain/Lift Master/Craftsman They're all basically the same, for a basic garage door opener I would buy one of those. I usually end up with a Craftsman just because dealing with Sears parts department is fairly easy if I need replacements.
                    I'm getting two single doors as opposed to one big one for my two car garage.

                    I heard belt drive is quieter than chain. Any other perks?

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                      December 12, 2016, 07:42 PM #85

                      awd_ftw Offline

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                      Originally posted by Vince
                      Even if it's 3/4" that's too small.. You can only put 3 #8's in a 3/4" conduit, which wouldn't even get you a 50A subpanel.

                      Thanks for the info! Is there enough room to run another wire add a second 15A or even a 30A to the main box?

                      I'm getting frost build up around the back door which I have to chip away at it every night. The humidity in my home is around 33%. I have minimal condensation on the windows, and usually clears up after 2 hrs running my hrv. There is no draft coming through the door sill. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

                       

                      Last Edit: December 12, 2016, 07:47 PM by awd_ftw

                        December 12, 2016, 08:17 PM #86

                        Vince Offline

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                        Originally posted by awd_ftw
                        Thanks for the info! Is there enough room to run another wire add a second 15A or even a 30A to the main box?

                        I have no idea. I'd have to know the number of conductors and their sizes that are in the conduit already.
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                          December 13, 2016, 08:07 AM #87

                          seanf Offline

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                          Originally posted by awd_ftw
                          Thanks for the info! Is there enough room to run another wire add a second 15A or even a 30A to the main box?

                          I'm getting frost build up around the back door which I have to chip away at it every night. The humidity in my home is around 33%. I have minimal condensation on the windows, and usually clears up after 2 hrs running my hrv. There is no draft coming through the door sill. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?


                          try and keep melted snow off the floor at your back door, the water being close to the cold door increases the humidity in the area and helps the frost build up.

                          You're lucky with the windows, my rh in the house is about 35-38% and all of my windows are wet at the bottom with my patio door unable to open and frost on the basement windows.

                          The other thing is your HRV could be unbalanced causing a draft at your back door only when its running as its creating a vacuum in the house pulling cold air in and creating the frost.

                            December 13, 2016, 03:33 PM #88

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                            just did 2" spray foam in the basement from Urecoat, i already had 1/2" foam core and spray foamed the joist pockets but what a huge difference.
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                              December 14, 2016, 02:04 AM #89

                              awd_ftw Offline

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                              Originally posted by seanf
                              try and keep melted snow off the floor at your back door, the water being close to the cold door increases the humidity in the area and helps the frost build up.

                              You're lucky with the windows, my rh in the house is about 35-38% and all of my windows are wet at the bottom with my patio door unable to open and frost on the basement windows.

                              The other thing is your HRV could be unbalanced causing a draft at your back door only when its running as its creating a vacuum in the house pulling cold air in and creating the frost.



                              Thanks for the suggestions! I just checked my HRV and the duct the brings fresh air in the home was closed. I opened the damper, hopefully this will solve it. I may as well clean out the filters tomorrow.

                              How long do you run you hrv?

                                December 14, 2016, 06:23 AM #90

                                seanf Offline

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                                Originally posted by awd_ftw

                                Thanks for the suggestions! I just checked my HRV and the duct the brings fresh air in the home was closed. I opened the damper, hopefully this will solve it. I may as well clean out the filters tomorrow.

                                How long do you run you hrv?


                                I run it as long as I need to so the humidity can come down, I've got it down to about 30% now, it probably runs 3-4 hrs a day, the dehumidistat broke so I'm currently controlling it manually until it gets replaced, otherwise I'd just set a humidity level and it let take care of that.

                                  December 18, 2016, 09:13 AM #91

                                  awd_ftw Offline

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                                  Originally posted by seanf
                                  I run it as long as I need to so the humidity can come down, I've got it down to about 30% now, it probably runs 3-4 hrs a day, the dehumidistat broke so I'm currently controlling it manually until it gets replaced, otherwise I'd just set a humidity level and it let take care of that.


                                  Thanks, I also borrowed my brother's dehumidifier unit and placed it near the back door. My hrv is on for same amount of time and it does make a difference but still frost forming around the door. I may have to call an hvac to see if its balanced or not.

                                    December 18, 2016, 06:27 PM #92

                                    Vince Offline

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                                    Originally posted by awd_ftw
                                    Thanks, I also borrowed my brother's dehumidifier unit and placed it near the back door. My hrv is on for same amount of time and it does make a difference but still frost forming around the door. I may have to call an hvac to see if its balanced or not.

                                    http://www.airmovementservices.com/

                                    That's one of the companies I deal with at work.

                                    You probably don't want to talk to an HVAC company since they're usually just refrigeration techs or tin bashers.
                                    Last Edit: December 18, 2016, 06:30 PM by Vince
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                                    [May 23 00:37:52] Sloppyclock:But Moooooom, I was being a street terrorist

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                                      « Reply #92 on: December 18, 2016, 06:27 PM »