Author Topic: How To: Optimize Boost for perfect traction WOT with ProEFI  (Read 912 times)

October 16, 2012, 09:55 PM #0

Eden Offline

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Tuning boost curves for the street/strip with traction control logging

*Note*  I'll add screenshots soon

I'm a recent convert to ProEFI, and today I got to playing with traction control when something amazing dawned on me.  I logged a run with driven and non-driven wheels, boost, RPM, and a bunch of other stuff that's less pertinent to this thread.  Now, this may be more common knowledge than I'm aware, but it's new to me and I'm excited so I'm sharing with you all :)

I thought to myself, traction control wouldn't have to kick in if I had less boost JUST before my rear wheels slipped.  So I picked the last RPM and vehicle speed point before the engine flashed and wheels broke traction.  Then I went to my iBoost curve and decreased boost accordingly at that RPM point (which was 5000RPM, incidentally where I must be making peak torque because I lost traction here in each gear).  I adjusted the boost at the other few wheel speeds that coincided with traction loss. 

I also can see where I'm getting into boost in my log, so I can ramp up to appropriate boost levels by gear, using the VSS/boost table. 

Basically, I've optimized my boost curve for my max grip given the current tires and outside air temp.  No more feathering my throttle, losing boost, and worrying about killing myself!  Just floor it and let the tune do its thing.  Once I've got the two-step and launch control set, I'll be destroying (stock) GTR's all day long.  I've got 5 iBoost settings on my switch, so I'll use it for:

1)gas saving
2)cool night
3)warm summer day
4)drag strip with DR tires
5)dyno with boost set at max at all speeds

I f***in LOVE my ProEFI!
USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

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    October 18, 2012, 04:43 AM #1

    CFMP RAblue Offline

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    Good job!! I have also just recently started to get into the tuning tables of my own maps ;)
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      October 25, 2012, 01:19 PM #2

      Eden Offline

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      Alright, so here we can see the log I have up.  It has driven wheel, non-driven wheel, RPM, TPS, boost.  The TPS is just to show me where I mashed the pedal down.  Boost is helpful in determining if we had spikes (which I do have here due to too high of a boost gain value, which I fixed).  The driven and non-driven speeds will alert us to traction loss where you see the non-driven wheel spike.  Find this point and note the non-driven speed.


      Next, go to the iBoost tab, and see where I've notched the curves down at the vehicle speed where I lost traction (35mph.)  Go back on the street, take a log, and see if it works.  It did for me, but I also had to fix my wastegate gain values to fix the boost from ramping up too fast and trying to correct, over and over.  On my dyno sheet it looked like a big sawblade. 


      Now, armed with perfect traction (assuming same operating conditions/tires/street surface/temperature), go and lay waste to all that may challenge you!
      USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

      http://TheraVape.net
      www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

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        How To: Optimize Boost for perfect traction WOT with ProEFI
        « Reply #2 on: October 25, 2012, 01:19 PM »