Author Topic: DIY: Eden's ProEFI for Dummies Guide  (Read 5228 times)

November 05, 2012, 09:29 AM #0

Eden Offline

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Eden's ProEFI for Dummies Guide v1.1

Note: The settings found in this guide pertain to the MKIV Supra, with a 2JZ engine.  The information on the use of the software is valid for all cars, otherwise, but an authorized dealer would set you up with the correct base settings you need for your particular vehicle to get you started.

Updates:
November 7, 2012
-corrected final drive ratio under setup>speed sensors tab
-corrected gear ratios under transmission main page, shift points now for 8000RPM


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't have a tuner who is "familiar" with ProEFI?  Want to get a better understanding of the software?  Need to make a few tweaks post-base-tune?  Don't worry, you're not alone.  The aim of this guide is to provide base settings and a basic/functional understanding of the software.  You will only need a tuner to do your VE tables and really, anyone can do that.  In fact, I'll go over that too, but a sustained-load dyno is always best.  As I go through sections, if I missed a tab it's because you really don't need to do anything with it. 

Legal stuff: I learned all this through countless phone calls with Larry and Jason, forum discussion and playing around.  I am not a tuner by profession nor am I in any way affiliated with ProEFI.  I'm not responsible for damage that occurs to any person or your car as a result of following this guide.  Use it with common sense and at your own discretion!



INSTALLATION
 
There's an excellent guide that covers this already on the SF forums and ProEFI forums.  Follow it and you will be fine.

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Additional sensors:  Sensors will have 3 wires.  5v reference (red), sensor ground (black), signal (white).  You may notice the 4th bare metal wire that makes contact with a foil sleeve as well.  That's a ground dump and is nice to use (just ground it) to protect the signal from interference, but it's not necessary.  All 5v reference wires need to go through the ECU.  It feeds the sensor with 5v, then the sensor gives a certain amount of resistance and gives a signal back to the ECU.  The ECU reads the new signal in ADC which is basically just a numerical count.  The ProEFI will need you to calibrate the sensors (especially temperature) so that these ADC values correspond with correct readings.  I'll go more into this later for specific sensors.  On the wiring pin-out sheet, just use the inputs for 5v signal and sensor return (and yes you can piggyback with other sensors) then the signal wire goes to the appropriate input.

You may want to get the following additional sensors: oil temperature (tap into oil pan), oil pressure (especially with modified oil circuit, coolers, etc.), transmission line pressure sensor.  There is already a transmission temp sensor from the factory.

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USING THE SOFTWARE

Explore the software offline and always use the help buttons if need be.  When you're ready to go online, turn the key to the ON position, plug in your USB, then go to "online" mode.  Here you can make soft changes, like fuel trims, realtime.  You cannot make hard changes, such as table indexes, sensor pin assignments, etc.

To make hard changes, work on your xcal file in offline mode.  When you're done, save the xcal file.  Then close out, re-open the program and click on "create ECU file."  Select the last srz file (if you don't have the first one, contact the person you bought it from to get it because you need it…) then select the updated xcal file.  Save as a new srz file, then close out.  Turn the car on, open the software, click on "flash ecu" then wait and turn off the car for a minute when it's done.  Turn on the car again and it's updated with all new changes.

*If you try to click "open" and load an xcal file in online mode that had hard changes made, you can brick your ProEFI.  If you're lucky, you can get it working again by power cycling.  Otherwise you need to send it in to get rebooted.  Don't ask me how I know ;)

The main screen shows you a bunch of gauges, tabs up top and a graph down below.  Learn the F keys for the tabs and you'll save yourself a lot of time switching back and forth.  The graph down below is for logging and you can select or deselect parameters to monitor by clicking on the grey boxes in the bottom left corner.  Hit the red record button to save, stop square to stop, green arrow to play, easy as pie.  You can then load then by clicking on the paper image and zoom in and scroll to analyze.  The check boxes on the right select and deselect parameters you recorded to make your log more readable and pertinent to you.   We'll start looking at the top tabs starting with the setup tab.



Index Tables: These set the scaling values on your X, Y axis for many tables.  These can be changed offline only, and you may need to change them as I'll touch on later.

Changing table values:  Try right clicking on a box and you'll see some options.  Become efficient at making changes by learning to blend/interpolate (CTRL+I), set value for a single or multiple boxes (CTRL+S) and by increasing selected boxes by a percentage (CTRL+P).  A negative percentage will take away and the value is in percent.  So a value of 5= five percent increase.
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SETUP

Assuming you bought your ProEFI from an authorized dealer, you should already have a good base tune.  There are things you still need to fix that are specific to your setup.

Let's start with the Setup(End) tab.  On the basic screen, just ensure your firmware version is up to date, vehicle weight (probably just used for fuel economy and HP calculations), 6 cylinders, swept cylinder VOLUME (especially if you have a stroker!) and 3 combustion events per rev.  Swept cylinder volume is 500cc for a 3.0L, but it's 541cc if you have a 3.25L stroker, etc.

If you have an appropriate base file from Larry or someone else, you can skip the advanced and fuel system tabs. 

Pressure Sensors:
Here you need to know what to do.  Make sure your sensor ranges match the sensors you've installed (eg. 5bar, 150psi, 500psi, etc.) or else you'll be scaled for incorrect readings.  The offsets are used to calibrate the sensors against the signal it gets from the sensors (ADC).  The default values are there to alert you if a sensor is not working.  So if you set it to 999, and you get a fuel pressure of 999, it means you're not getting a signal from that sensor.  Check your wiring.  The high and low faults will  just trigger faults so make sure to set these to appropriate values.

The MAP sensor should be setup just fine.  ADC offset should be -102.30, unless you know the current barometric pressure…  With the car in the ON position but NOT running, adjust the ADC offset until the MAP kpa matches your ambient outside pressure. 

Refer to the screenshot for Analogin and make sure they are all set.  The sensors you opted to install may not be set here and until they are, you will not get readings.  If you opt to install a transmission line pressure sensor, use AN25 from the pulldown list, range 500psi and offset -102.3.  AN21 is for oil pressure, along with range of 150psi, offset -102.3.  These are both optional so add them in if you need to.


Temperature Sensors:
Mine were off, so I had Chris Delgado (thanks!) send me corrected curves.  These sensors use tables to ensure your ECU takes the sensor signal and gives you accurate values.   You'll notice the response is non-linear, hence the use of tables.  If your maps don't look like mine, use these numbers.  I'lll add the remaining indexes soon.*

Coolant:
0, 45, 58, 77, 87, 101, 111, 120, 128, 135, 151, 163, 176, 188, 199, 211, 222, 236, 252, 271, 297, 313, 331, 357, 380, 407, 431, 454, 477, 498, 564, 622, 672, 776, 782, 825, 898, 918, 1023
127, 118, 116, 104, 99, 93, 88, 85, 82, 79, 77, 74, 71, 68, 66, 63, 60, 57, 54, 52, 49, 46, 43, 41, 38, 35, 32, 29, 27, 24, 18, 13, 7, 2, -4, -9, -21, -29, -40


Inlet Air Temp: 127, 127, 127, 127, 119, 109, 99, 92, 87, 81, 76, 73, 69, 65, 62, 58, 55, 51, 47, 44, 41, 38, 35, 32, 29, 25, 21, 18, 13, 13, 8, 5, 1, -2, -6, -9, -13, -16, -20


EGT: -40, 20, 0, 25, 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000

*Oil Temp (using ProEFI sensor):
127, 127, 108, 93, 82, 73, 67, 62, 58, 54, 51, 48, 45, 43, 39, 36, 33, 29, 25, 22, 18, 15, 12, 9, 6, 3, 0, -4, -8, -15,-23, -34, -50, -51, -52, -53, -54, -55, -56


*Trans Temp (use the above oil temp values if using ProEFI sensor.  use this table if using OEM):
127, 127, 127, 127, 124, 118, 113, 109, 106, 102, 98, 95, 90, 85, 81, 77, 74, 71, 68, 66, 63, 60, 57, 53, 50, 47, 43, 41, 38, 34, 31, 27, 24, 18, 13, 7, -1, -12, -40


Speed Sensors:
Refer to the screenshot to make it work.  Ensure you have the correct tire size for your own application.  Select Digital Input for "driven" and "non driven wheel speed interface."  If you don't, the ProEFI won't see vehicle speed and therefor will not display correct speed, shift an automatic, or do anything that requires a vehicle speed sensor like traction control, launch control, etc. 


O2 Sensors:
No need to change anything here, but be aware that this is where you toggle O2 correction.  You'll need to know this for tuning, but once your car's fuel is tuned, leave O2ControlEnable "enabled" so the oxygen sensor readings will help reach your Target AFR table values.  (Eg. you're on a trip and there's a change in altitude, or temperature, etc…)


Congratulations!  There's nothing else you need to touch in the Setup section :)

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Last Edit: December 11, 2014, 10:59 AM by Ænimal
USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

http://TheraVape.net
www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

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    DIY: Eden's ProEFI for Dummies Guide
    « on: November 05, 2012, 09:29 AM »

    November 05, 2012, 09:29 AM #1

    Eden Offline

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      Location: Winnipeg
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    CRANKING

    Don't play with this page until your car is tuned.  Once it's tuned and your idle is set, come here.  The base settings from Larry are good, but may

    require tweaking since different cars have different setups, so different VE's, etc.  I changed all the values in my Cranking Airflow set point to 100%

    to help with starting.  It opens your IACV.  If you don't have an IACV, this won't do much. 

    Warmup Enrichment Table:  First, this table overrides O2 correction for a minute unless you changed that in the O2 setup.  The table adds  fuel to your

    existing VE table based on coolant temperature (side axis) and time running (top axis.)  Even if the car is hot, you still need enrichment for the first

    45 seconds or so while the spark plugs and cylinder warm up.  I believe the last value still affects the fuel enrichment after the minute is up so

    ensure that the bottom right value is 1.00.  You may notice that to have a smooth warmup, the AFR will be like 7 or 8.  This is normal for the first

    minute. 

    Gas Cranking Table: 
    If you have a hard time starting, try applying throttle while you crank.  If it starts easier, take away fuel in this cell/table.  If it makes
    it harder to start, add fuel from the cells that were active when you were cranking.  The active cells turn red in any table.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    FUEL

    These tables use "desired Equivalency" instead of AFR or lambda, but press help and it'll show you a conversion table.  Just print it out if your tuner is not used to it.

    You have some tabs to explore here.  If you have a base tune (at least from Larry), the target VE table should be solid.  You may need to tweak idle and such.  I won't show the target values unless Larry is ok with it since that's his intellectual property.  The target table is what the ECU "wants" to see and your main table is how much you're telling the ECU it needs under a given load (manifold pressure in kPa) at a certain RPM.  Main VE is really the only tab your tuner needs to use to get your AFR's correct, so tell him not to be a *****.


    If you have O2 compensation turned on, it won't believe you anyway and will ensure you're getting those target values.  You can tune by looking at the target error%, or gradually build the table starting with idle, the throttle ramping, cruise, throttle blips, and slowly build the higher VE values up.  The target error is how far off your main VE table is from hitting the target AFR table.  This can be due to altitude, engine setup, etc.  So expect this to need "tuning."  When you're done, turn on O2 compensation again.  Do you need to set the main VE table if O2 compensation does all the work for you?  Well, it'll cause less correction so it'll run smoother, plus if your O2 sensor ever decides to go down for some reason, it'll run off the main VE table.  If you have AFRs of 20 WOT, say goodbye to your motor.

    Power Enrichment Table: 
    You probably don't need to use this if you have your tables set up right, but I have mine set anyway.  Consider full throttle TPS 80% and I just have it set to add a little fuel as RPMs climb.  If you plan to rev to 8000, make sure your rev limit is increased to 8000, and change the index here to end at 8000RPM.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    SPARK

    The low octane map is used unless you have a flex fuel sensor (or some other switch) to trigger the high octane map.  This table is offline only.  It sets timing advance by load (manifold pressure) vs RPM.  I won't get into how to tune this, but basically, engine turns faster, less time for spark, advance timing.  Advancing timing changes the angle from spark plug spark to piston TDC.  Higher octane or E85 lets you advance to make more power.  Lower grade fuel (not using Premium?) requires you to retard timing or else suffer knock and possibly one grenaded motor.  So if you don't know what you're doing here, don't touch it.


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    BOOST

    First, copy the screenshot settings, IF you're using a MAC valve for boost control.  If your waste gate is just running off spring pressure you can still set these anyway, it just won't control boost yet.  The WG increase gain sets how much the solenoid reacts to a given signal.  Too high a setting will cause you to overshoot target boost.  Target boost is achieved using pressure feedback so there's an error gain.  If the error gain is set too high it'll over correct and drop too low.  If one or both of these problems are present, you'll get boost oscillation.  I have yet to test these two new values but they were recommended as proper starting points by Jason at ProEFI (thanks Jason!)  They're lower than what I had before and the values I had were causing oscillation.  So you may need to tweak them a bit.


    The settings on this next page were unchanged from the base file but may be handy for reference.


    Two-Step Antilag:
    Ohhh yeah…..  Ok, first, you don't need a switch.  If you're gonna sit there at a stop and floor it with the brake applied, chances are you want this on.  Don't wanna use it?  Don't floor it while you're stopped…  That being said, let's set it to always be on at a stop.  Select "None" for two-step analogin.  That means there's no switch and the default is "off."  Set your target boost to whatever you want and remember this is absolute pressure.  So add atmospheric ~100kpa to whatever boost value you want.  RPM set point, set it to a couple hundred RPM under what you'll set your launch control at.  Now, select "Inverted" for two-step switch invert.  This makes the default "ON."  Set your MPH bypass at 9 or 10MPH.  That speed will disable two-step and let you drive off like a boss. 


    I-Boost: 
    Select Boost by VSS.  Now your bottom graph index numbers mean "MPH."  If you want, change the scaling.  You likely want as many points as possible in the areas that need adjusting, then from, say, 120-200MPH just make that jump over one box.  Here you can set boost curves by iBoost stage.  Ramp them up so you have traction.  How do you know where you need more traction?  Turn off traction control, take logs, see where driven and non-driven wheel speeds show a differential.  That's wheel slip.  Go back to this graph and lower the boost where that happened if you want a lethal street car.  (lethal to your opponents, safer for YOU!)


    Lastly, notice my I boost stage calibration table is probably different from yours.  Your iBoost switch simply works by giving different ADC (different electrical resistance) based on switch setting.  Notice the iBoost offset is left at 0 for simplicity.  Now click to the different positions and you'll see the ADC count change.  Set your table so that the correct ADCs match up with proper switch position.  Copy my table if you like.  I can't see why it should be different.  Just make sure when you're done that position 1 puts you in iBoost mode 1, etc.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    IDLE

    You'll probably spend a bit of time here if you're tuning it yourself.  The first two graphs are simple.  Target idle RPM vs coolant temperature.  Copy mine if you like.  Try to have the in-gear idle lower than neutral idle if you have an automatic to help smoothen the shift into gear. 


    Idle Offsets:
    Come here after you set your idle RPM curves.  It should look basically like mine, but tune this after your main VE table is tuned.  When the car is cold, you can tune the whole thing.  Just watch the red ball move right as the car warms up and move the points up or down to maintain an IAC integral term of 10-15.  You'll see it idles better in that range.  Then do the same in gear.


    Idle Feedback: Copy these settings for a smooth idle.  The gain affects how much the idle changes and the error gain affects how much the ECU reacts to correct the idle.  If these are too high, you can have an erratic idle.  Too low, and errors won't be compensated for adequately.  As with most boxes, they are pretty well explained in the Help buttons.


    Idle Spark:  Copy these settings too :P


    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

    http://TheraVape.net
    www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

      November 05, 2012, 09:31 AM #2

      Eden Offline

      • Regular Member
      • Posts: 432
      • Join Date: Oct 2012
        Location: Winnipeg
      • Real Name: Eden
      • Vehicle: Supra
      • Reputation Power: 13
      • Eden has no influence.
      CRANKING

      Don't play with this page until your car is tuned.  Once it's tuned and your idle is set, come here.  The base settings from Larry are good, but may

      require tweaking since different cars have different setups, so different VE's, etc.  I changed all the values in my Cranking Airflow set point to 100%

      to help with starting.  It opens your IACV.  If you don't have an IACV, this won't do much. 

      Warmup Enrichment Table:  First, this table overrides O2 correction for a minute unless you changed that in the O2 setup.  The table adds  fuel to your

      existing VE table based on coolant temperature (side axis) and time running (top axis.)  Even if the car is hot, you still need enrichment for the first

      45 seconds or so while the spark plugs and cylinder warm up.  I believe the last value still affects the fuel enrichment after the minute is up so

      ensure that the bottom right value is 1.00.  You may notice that to have a smooth warmup, the AFR will be like 7 or 8.  This is normal for the first

      minute. 

      Gas Cranking Table: 
      If you have a hard time starting, try applying throttle while you crank.  If it starts easier, take away fuel in this cell/table.  If it makes
      it harder to start, add fuel from the cells that were active when you were cranking.  The active cells turn red in any table.


      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      FUEL

      These tables use "desired Equivalency" instead of AFR or lambda, but press help and it'll show you a conversion table.  Just print it out if your tuner is not used to it.

      You have some tabs to explore here.  If you have a base tune (at least from Larry), the target VE table should be solid.  You may need to tweak idle and such.  I won't show the target values unless Larry is ok with it since that's his intellectual property.  The target table is what the ECU "wants" to see and your main table is how much you're telling the ECU it needs under a given load (manifold pressure in kPa) at a certain RPM.  Main VE is really the only tab your tuner needs to use to get your AFR's correct, so tell him not to be a *****.


      If you have O2 compensation turned on, it won't believe you anyway and will ensure you're getting those target values.  You can tune by looking at the target error%, or gradually build the table starting with idle, the throttle ramping, cruise, throttle blips, and slowly build the higher VE values up.  The target error is how far off your main VE table is from hitting the target AFR table.  This can be due to altitude, engine setup, etc.  So expect this to need "tuning."  When you're done, turn on O2 compensation again.  Do you need to set the main VE table if O2 compensation does all the work for you?  Well, it'll cause less correction so it'll run smoother, plus if your O2 sensor ever decides to go down for some reason, it'll run off the main VE table.  If you have AFRs of 20 WOT, say goodbye to your motor.

      Power Enrichment Table: 
      You probably don't need to use this if you have your tables set up right, but I have mine set anyway.  Consider full throttle TPS 80% and I just have it set to add a little fuel as RPMs climb.  If you plan to rev to 8000, make sure your rev limit is increased to 8000, and change the index here to end at 8000RPM.


      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      SPARK

      The low octane map is used unless you have a flex fuel sensor (or some other switch) to trigger the high octane map.  This table is offline only.  It sets timing advance by load (manifold pressure) vs RPM.  I won't get into how to tune this, but basically, engine turns faster, less time for spark, advance timing.  Advancing timing changes the angle from spark plug spark to piston TDC.  Higher octane or E85 lets you advance to make more power.  Lower grade fuel (not using Premium?) requires you to retard timing or else suffer knock and possibly one grenaded motor.  So if you don't know what you're doing here, don't touch it.


      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      BOOST

      First, copy the screenshot settings, IF you're using a MAC valve for boost control.  If your waste gate is just running off spring pressure you can still set these anyway, it just won't control boost yet.  The WG increase gain sets how much the solenoid reacts to a given signal.  Too high a setting will cause you to overshoot target boost.  Target boost is achieved using pressure feedback so there's an error gain.  If the error gain is set too high it'll over correct and drop too low.  If one or both of these problems are present, you'll get boost oscillation.  I have yet to test these two new values but they were recommended as proper starting points by Jason at ProEFI (thanks Jason!)  They're lower than what I had before and the values I had were causing oscillation.  So you may need to tweak them a bit.


      The settings on this next page were unchanged from the base file but may be handy for reference.


      Two-Step Antilag:
      Ohhh yeah…..  Ok, first, you don't need a switch.  If you're gonna sit there at a stop and floor it with the brake applied, chances are you want this on.  Don't wanna use it?  Don't floor it while you're stopped…  That being said, let's set it to always be on at a stop.  Select "None" for two-step analogin.  That means there's no switch and the default is "off."  Set your target boost to whatever you want and remember this is absolute pressure.  So add atmospheric ~100kpa to whatever boost value you want.  RPM set point, set it to a couple hundred RPM under what you'll set your launch control at.  Now, select "Inverted" for two-step switch invert.  This makes the default "ON."  Set your MPH bypass at 9 or 10MPH.  That speed will disable two-step and let you drive off like a boss. 


      I-Boost: 
      Select Boost by VSS.  Now your bottom graph index numbers mean "MPH."  If you want, change the scaling.  You likely want as many points as possible in the areas that need adjusting, then from, say, 120-200MPH just make that jump over one box.  Here you can set boost curves by iBoost stage.  Ramp them up so you have traction.  How do you know where you need more traction?  Turn off traction control, take logs, see where driven and non-driven wheel speeds show a differential.  That's wheel slip.  Go back to this graph and lower the boost where that happened if you want a lethal street car.  (lethal to your opponents, safer for YOU!)


      Lastly, notice my I boost stage calibration table is probably different from yours.  Your iBoost switch simply works by giving different ADC (different electrical resistance) based on switch setting.  Notice the iBoost offset is left at 0 for simplicity.  Now click to the different positions and you'll see the ADC count change.  Set your table so that the correct ADCs match up with proper switch position.  Copy my table if you like.  I can't see why it should be different.  Just make sure when you're done that position 1 puts you in iBoost mode 1, etc.

      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      IDLE

      You'll probably spend a bit of time here if you're tuning it yourself.  The first two graphs are simple.  Target idle RPM vs coolant temperature.  Copy mine if you like.  Try to have the in-gear idle lower than neutral idle if you have an automatic to help smoothen the shift into gear. 


      Idle Offsets:
      Come here after you set your idle RPM curves.  It should look basically like mine, but tune this after your main VE table is tuned.  When the car is cold, you can tune the whole thing.  Just watch the red ball move right as the car warms up and move the points up or down to maintain an IAC integral term of 10-15.  You'll see it idles better in that range.  Then do the same in gear.


      Idle Feedback: Copy these settings for a smooth idle.  The gain affects how much the idle changes and the error gain affects how much the ECU reacts to correct the idle.  If these are too high, you can have an erratic idle.  Too low, and errors won't be compensated for adequately.  As with most boxes, they are pretty well explained in the Help buttons.


      Idle Spark:  Copy these settings too :P


      -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

      http://TheraVape.net
      www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

        November 05, 2012, 09:31 AM #3

        Eden Offline

        • Regular Member
        • Posts: 432
        • Join Date: Oct 2012
          Location: Winnipeg
        • Real Name: Eden
        • Vehicle: Supra
        • Reputation Power: 13
        • Eden has no influence.
        LAUNCH

        Enabling launch control basically gives you an adaptive RPM redline.  It starts low then moves up as you set it.  This overrides your set RPM limit that you set elsewhere.  So select "Enable" from the launch control enable drop-down box.  For Two Step Ignore timer, set it to 4 seconds, or whatever you want.  I don't think I'd be on it for much longer than that anyway.  EGTs climb while you use two-step, so don't abuse it. 


        Now set your MPH index to go from 1MPH to however fast you feel you will go and still need your RPM limited for traction.  It should start curved like mine, then straighten out as you accelerate.  The last value should be the RPM you wish to use as your normal RPM limit.  I started at 3000RPM, and if you recall, I had my two-step set at 2800RPM.  That'll let it bounce a tiny bit and allow the two-step to build boost.

        For the launch control spark retard, you'll need to play with this until you get the boost you want and maybe the flames you want, LOL.  I started at -9 degrees@1MPH, then curved faster than my launch control.  That way it removes retard faster than your increase redline so it can function properly until you are out of launch control and moving.  Now I have it starting at -12 degrees, but I can't say one setting is right for everyone.  It will depend on your power levels, tires, suspension, road condition, temperature, so now with a basic understanding you just need to tune this.  If you go to a drag strip, you can set it all by looking at logs and your 60-ft or 1/8mi times. 

        With launch control, 2-step and boost control working in harmony, you will have the best launches your car is capable of, EVERY time!  You have 5 different settings for boost curves and 2-step that correlate with your 5 iBoost settings.  Launch control is always the same.

        -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        N2O

        Sorry, I'm not using this.  So I won't go into it, but it is pretty self explanatory.

        -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        TRACtion Control

        Copy these settings.  Enable it, set it to Inverted if you want the traction control on when you turn your car on.  You should always have it on unless you're trying to do a burn out…  Use option 4 for wheel speed differential (the most advanced method and one of the reasons for buying a ProEFI)


        Differential Speed: 
        For the wheel speed allowed before cut box, enter 1 or 2%.  This is how much above the curve the difference between front/rear wheel needs to be before applying spark cut.  For time delay before cut, enter 0.10 or 0.20 for a faster response.  Too long a response will let you slip longer and possibly put you in a ditch if you don't take your foot off the throttle.


        The Maximum Differential curve up top in the blue determines how much slip is allowed at a given vehicle speed (based off of front, or, non-driven wheel speed.)  Generally it should be higher at slow speeds because even a difference of 10MPH can be 100% slip if you're only going 5MPH but at 100MPH that 10MPH slip represents a lower % of slip. 

        The Bottom table sets ignition retard based on the amount of slip.  The base tune from Larry is good so I left it alone. 

        When traction control kicks in the way I have it set, you feel a very quick modulation in power that keeps you accelerating without flying into oncoming traffic.  It's subtle and VERY effective.  No foot on Earth can react as fast or as precisely, nor can the best foot on Earth keep you in boost when he/she has to modulate the throttle.  This way your foot stays planted, boost stays up until traction is there again.

        -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

        LIMITERS

        Here's where you can set your primary RPM limit.  I set mine to 8200 so that when my engine shifts at 8000, it allows a little leeway before bouncing off the limiter and lets me hit my shift (automatic.)

        When your 2-step is set and active, you'll see your current active RPM limit is lower.  For mine it shows the 2800RPM I set it to, since the car isn't moving.  You can set the rev limit type to fuel/ignition cut or both.  I just have mine set to ignition.


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        USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

        http://TheraVape.net
        www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

          November 05, 2012, 09:32 AM #4

          Eden Offline

          • Regular Member
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            Location: Winnipeg
          • Real Name: Eden
          • Vehicle: Supra
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          TRANSmission (BIG Thanks to Dave (JZ1) for all the help here!)

          ***These are my current settings, but there may be updated changes in the next couple days!!!***

          Ok, this is where AUTOMATIC (A340E) Supra owner need to really pay attention.  There's a lot to change here if you had your base tune done before today (November 2, 2012).  I don't have a manual so I can't comment on this tab for those users.

          Shift schedule: 
          Ahhh the magical table.  You set what speed the car shifts from 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and vice versa based on throttle % in these two tables.  The defaults are fine for the stock A340E.  If you want a higher shifting point, calculate it by using the rear diff final drive ratio and the current gear, the tire size and RPM you wish to shift at.  If you want to shift at 8000 like me, use these values for upshifting at 80 and 100% throttle.  58MPH, 108MPH, 165MPH, assuming stock rear diff with 3.76 final ratio with 285/35R18 tires.  I've lowered each by a MPH or two to help avoid an over-rev.  The downshift schedules can be adjusted as well to reflect the above.  Tentatively I have these as values until final testing next Spring.  Feel free to try them: 30MPH, 82MPH, 150MPH.  Move the yellow and green lines out of your way.  They are not used.  For the downshift table, the values you select are the max speed allowed at a given throttle to give you the downshift specified on the line.  Eg. red coloured line (2-1) will NOT let you perform this downshift IF you're above 30MPH as set above, etc.


          When you go to dyno your car, LOWER the 3-2 downshift to something stupid at full throttle to prevent unwanted downshifting when trying to get a read.  When you're done with the dyno, return the values.

          Converter Lockup:
          Copy these settings.  Pay attention to the converter Solenoid Frequency.  It should be 300 (Thanks Dave!) or else it will not work properly.  Notice that 3rd gear is the minimum gear you have to be in before the converter will ever lock.  Important for dyno-tuning.


          ***IF you have a built auto with mechanically raised line pressure (TITAN, BL, etc.) the top left values in the Torque Converter Ramp In Table MUST be lower than the settings for a stock Auto.  It will lower the time it takes to complete lockup.  The settings here reflect what works for these transmissions.  Otherwise, you will experience a "shudder" at low RPM, low throttle in 3rd or 4th gear.  These changes fix that problem!

          In the Torque Converter Active Map table, everything is either ON (locked) or OFF (unlocked), so 1, or 0, respectively.  This is an interesting table.  You could save a little gas by locking the converter at 25-40% throttle at cruising speeds.  That way less gas/RPM is used slipping the converter, but it's not ideal if you want to get ready to floor it.  It'll drag the car down a bit at those conditions.  Anyway, just copy my table.  ***IF you want to lock it up in 3rd gear the whole time for a dyno, set the whole table to 1.  It'll lock the whole time once you hit 3rd gear.  Remember this is a "hard" change so you have to save as an SRZ file and flash the ECU each time.  It may cost you a little dyno time.

          Torque Reduction: 
          Use the values everywhere found on this screenshot. 
          The shift torque delay values are how long the computer waits before reapplying torque after a shift.  Shift Torque Delta 1st is torque reduction when shifting from Park to Reverse or Neutral to Drive, etc.  It should be a negative number.  You may want to play with this one.  Change it by one with the car parked, then shift from P-R and see how it feels. You'll probably find a good value between -5 and -15.


          The bottom left table basically controls how much slip or torque reduction you get at a certain throttle and at a certain RPM. 

          The bottom right table controls how long the computer reduces torque between shifts depending on throttle and RPM.  These settings will give you a nice smooth shift.  If you want no timing to be pulled during your WOT shifts, then the two far right columns (85 and 100%TPS) can be lowered to zero.  Personally I'm keeping some shift retard.  My thinking is it's probably easier on the transmission.

          Trans Setup: 
          Copy all these settings.  (Thanks for the update Larry!)


          Line Pressure:
          Set the frequency to 300Hz and use LinePressure Pin FINJ11 if you installed a line pressure sensor.  I'm not sure if there's a stock sensor you can use.


          Overrun/Accum BP:
          Copy this page.  Use Pin FINJ6 for the accumulator.  I had to look this one up in the manual (solenoid #4).  I had someone at ProEFI verify it though and tested it after, so it's correct.  Frequency is 300Hz.  This will help smoothen shifts out as well.


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          I/O

          I won't talk too much about this one.  By the time you get here you should know your way around well enough to use it. 

          High/Low:  (Someone please fact-check me on this tab!)
          You are most likely going to use the High/Low switch if you install flex fuel.  Use your flex fuel sensor for the analogin and set the ADC to whatever ADC corresponds to the %ethanol content where you want the map to switch to high octane.  It will change your ignition map, etc.  I don't have mine setup yet, but the default is 600.  Leave the polarity as Normal.

          If you're gonna use race gas and pump instead, just wire up a switch to J1 A28 for hi/lo request switch and set the pin to this instead.

          Fans/Aux Pumps: 
          Use this tab if you wire your aftermarket electric fans to the ProEFI outputs.  Set the pins you used, the on and off temps, etc.  You can also set fan #2 to come on with AC here.  I've never heard anyone confirm this works and I've yet to wire mine up through the ProEFI but I have no reason to believe this won't work.  The stock fan switches come on much later/hotter that what is ideal so I recommend using the ProEFI to control them instead.



          A/C:
          Here you can set your AC to turn on only if a minimum RPM is first met and you can have it shut off when at WOT so you don't waste HP, like a boss!  Also you can set the idle air offset while it's active, but that should be set in the base tune already.

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          PROTECTION

          Here again you can set the primary Rev limit.  Make it match the number you used earlier.  The rest is set just fine from the base tune.


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          As a footnote, you may have noticed that a LOT of this stuff depends on your TPS being PROPERLY calibrated.  If you've ever touched it for any reason (cleaning, powder coating, etc.) please make sure you've calibrated it or everything here will be off all the time.  Refer to the TSRM, get your digital multimeter and a helper to hold the electrodes on the pins you're testing while you adjust the TPS and carefully set it, then double check that after tightening the screws, that it is still within spec.  Tightening the screws can throw off your adjustment. 

          I hope you enjoyed this guide and find value in it.  Not having a tuner local to you that is familiar with the ProEFI should NEVER deter you from purchasing one because it's really easy to use (now that you've read my guide).  If you have any kind of tuner near you, he just needs to know how to calibrate a VE table and that's the same whether you're using AEM, Haltech, etc. 

          No, I was not paid to make this, though I am open to receiving money at any time :)  I do not work for anybody even associated with ProEFI.  I'm just thoroughly impressed by how well my car runs on it and by the tech advantages it affords me over other systems.  So have fun with your new ECU and take comfort in knowing you've bought the best ECU on the market (that isn't targeted at the wealthiest 1%.)

          Thanks Axoman for the crank/fuel add/remove correction!
          Last Edit: November 07, 2012, 12:41 PM by Eden
          USDM MKIV Supra - 800BHP / 636RWHP at 20PSI on E70 through a Titan-built automatic.  3.2L stroker, Borg Warner S363

          http://TheraVape.net
          www.facebook.com/theravapeinc

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            Eden's ProEFI for Dummies Guide
            « Reply #4 on: November 05, 2012, 09:32 AM »