Author Topic: DIY: Brake Pads and Rotors  (Read 3089 times)

May 08, 2012, 10:46 AM #0

TonyPajamaz Offline

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Hey guys, this past weekend I got my new brakes in so I figured it would be good to take a couple pictures and write up a DIY on toptier.

I didn't really know what type of brakes I had on my car when I got it, but they where very squeaky and were creating lots of dust. They still had lots of life left, but the noise and dust were driving me nuts.

I decided to go with OEM rotors (because the ones on the car looked like fake slotted ones), and HAWK HPS brake pads. For the Evo IV the rotors matched up with an 06 Outlander, and the front pads match up with a 93+ Talon TSI, So I was able to get all of my parts from Speed Factor Racing.

Here is my work station:

For this type of job just a regular ratchet set will do. I find it's good to have a hammer to help brake bolts and some brake cleaner to spray down the calipers after taking off the pads and for the rotors after they are on the car. Other things include the obvious, Jack, Jack stands, tire iron etc.



This is what the old set up looked like. No clue what the rotors were, but after taking the pads off it appears they are Project Mu pads which explains why they were so loud and gave off so much dust. They were also very grippy, which makes sense now too.



These are the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper, the interior one is the one that fastens it to the hub, the outer one needed to be loosened to allow the caliper to move when putting the new pads on. There are 2 sets of bolts 1 on the top as you see and another on the bottom in the same spots. The 2 bolts holding the caliper to the hub will need to be removed to take the caliper off so that the rotor can be removed.



Once the caliper is off, the pads literally just needed to be poked out of place.



To get the pistons back down, I kept the old pad in place, put the caliper back on and used the extension in the picture as a wedge and it slowly pushes the piston back down. This needs to be done as your old pads will be slimmer then then new pads and if you don't, you won't be able to fit the new brake pads on to the rotor as there won't be enough clearance.



This is the new OEM rotor compared to the old one.



Old pads on the bottom, HPS pads on top, notice how they already come with backing plates already on!



To put the new pads on, you just do the opposite of everything you did to take it off. Put your pads into their slots, put the new rotor on to the hub, slide the caliper back on to the rotor and bolt the caliper in place. and Voila, you are done your brakes.



This took me about 3 hours as I had never dealt with this type of caliper before and took a little bit of trial and error to figure out what I needed to do. It should have only taken about 1.5 hours, but it all depends on how fast you work.

As always, make sure your bolts are tightened back up to spec, and that all bolts are put back in place. Always pump your brakes several times untill you feel stiffness coming back into them, never drive off right after replacing brake components. Torque your lug nuts back up properly and enjoy your new brakes.

This is how dirty I got from doing the front brakes lol



I'll write a review on the pads in the review section to follow up on the install.
Last Edit: December 11, 2014, 11:01 AM by Ænimal
[Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

[Sep 23 14:27:56] Faken:i was focusing on dan's bum

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    DIY: Brake Pads and Rotors
    « on: May 08, 2012, 10:46 AM »

    May 08, 2012, 10:55 AM #1

    Shaun Offline

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    Nice one Tony. Next time don't rub your face on everything.

      May 08, 2012, 11:03 AM #2

      TonyPajamaz Offline

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      lol I tried to sneak my head back there to see the bolts and then boom, big streak on my face haha.
      [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

      [Sep 23 14:27:56] Faken:i was focusing on dan's bum

        May 08, 2012, 12:04 PM #3

        Igor Offline

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        Great write up! Ive never understood why dealerships charge $200+ for brake replacements. It takes like 30 minutes max.
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          May 08, 2012, 12:06 PM #4

          ACiFiC Offline

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          Originally posted by Shaun
          Nice one Tony. Next time don't rub your face on everything.
          Hahaha, good write up man.
          Originally posted by Winter Beater
          If a car is shows that a solid effort was made, and the car is reasonably well executed I can respect that. Even if it's not my cup of tea..

            May 08, 2012, 12:26 PM #5

            jordisonjr Offline

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            Good stuff.
            Never had to do pads myself yet, but im sure this will come in handy sooner or later.
            Originally posted by Madbuzz41
            I'm not a fan of blowing for a long time anyways ; )


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              May 08, 2012, 02:39 PM #6

              Rush Offline

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              GITRRR DONE. Nice write up Tony. Why oem rotors?
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                May 08, 2012, 06:52 PM #7

                JayPe3 Offline

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                Good job buddy, nice write up.

                  May 08, 2012, 10:53 PM #8

                  TonyPajamaz Offline

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                  Originally posted by Rush
                  GITRRR DONE. Nice write up Tony. Why oem rotors?

                  I've never been a fan of upgraded brakes on a street car, So I figured I would go with at least an autocross pad that had bite, didn't give off dust, was quiet, and let it do all the work.

                  Oem rotors were less then 40 bucks a side. I would never buy drilled rotors as I hear they can warp especially as most drilled rotors are drilled after they are made, which is just as bad as drilling oem rotors. Slotted do help release any gas created between the pad and rotor, but they cut down your pad life.

                  Thanks for the compliments guys, if anyone needs help doing heir brakes just let me know.
                  [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

                  [Sep 23 14:27:56] Faken:i was focusing on dan's bum

                    May 10, 2012, 12:09 PM #9

                    Rush Offline

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                    What I heard about drilled rotors was they can crack in between the holes, never seen a case tho. Also which kind of drilled rotors are not drilled after they are made?
                    Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 12:13 PM by Rush
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                      May 10, 2012, 04:37 PM #10

                      TonyPajamaz Offline

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                      The good kind lol. Anything very high end. The rotors that come drilled stock on a Ferrari for instance, would be molded with holes in it.
                      [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

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                        May 11, 2012, 10:18 PM #11

                        El Dorifto Offline

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                        Great right up Tony. And you wont be dissapointed with those Hawk pads thats for sure. Loved mine in my cars.
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                          May 12, 2012, 01:58 PM #12

                          themikewoo Offline

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                          May 13, 2012, 09:52 PM #13

                          Murphenur Offline

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                          great write up... hope to do one this weekend when I replace my calipers...
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                            May 13, 2012, 11:04 PM #14

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                            I did my brakes once. Had no idea what I was doing really but it worked out. Now I'm thinking I need to do my rear ones on my Z.
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                              May 14, 2012, 01:30 AM #15

                              TonyPajamaz Offline

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                              Originally posted by Murphenur
                              great write up... hope to do one this weekend when I replace my calipers...

                              Please do! I think I may have a bubble in my brake line, and I'd like to see how to bleed the brakes or burp the system.
                              [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

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                                May 23, 2012, 10:54 PM #16

                                Stoyka Offline

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                                Nice write up, I was just trying to convince a friend to do theirs today but they suck so they are gonna waste money at a shop.

                                Id also like to add, when I do my brakes I like to put a little bit of red silicone between the piston and the pad just to give it that bit of extra grab so it doesnt get stuck against the rotor. I dunno if that actually makes a difference, I like to think it does. Also, princess auto sells a tool thats basically a bolt with a handle on one side that goes through a plate. The plate goes against the caliper bracket, screw the handle and it pushes the piston back in.

                                http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/2990006/Brakes/Disc-Brake-Spreader

                                Really easy to use and it saves you jamming an extension in there!
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                                  May 24, 2012, 12:35 AM #17

                                  TonyPajamaz Offline

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                                  I should have added it in the write up, but as you can see in the last picture, I did spread the recommended 1-2 grams of red lubricant on the back of the pad to prevent squealing.

                                  That's a good tip for depressing the pistons, you can also just use a regular clamp with something wide enough to cover the face of the piston.
                                  [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

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                                    May 24, 2012, 07:41 AM #18

                                    CFMP RAblue Offline

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                                    I WAS A MAN AND USED MY HAND... for my rear calipers I had to use a c-clamp for the fronts way to hard lol
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                                      May 24, 2012, 10:44 AM #19

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                                      Easiest way is if you have a slot or opening in the top of the caliper, you can pry the caliper against the rotor while its still on the car, and the pistons will compress back in.
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                                        May 24, 2012, 06:55 PM #20

                                        TonyPajamaz Offline

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                                        Originally posted by CFMP RAblue
                                        I WAS A MAN AND USED MY HAND... for my rear calipers I had to use a c-clamp for the fronts way to hard lol

                                        Yeah my back ones went in like butter haha!
                                        [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

                                        [Sep 23 14:27:56] Faken:i was focusing on dan's bum

                                          September 13, 2012, 10:34 PM #21

                                          sunshine Offline

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                                          this is a good DIY

                                            September 14, 2012, 12:06 AM #22

                                            TonyPajamaz Offline

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                                            Originally posted by sunshine
                                            this is a good DIY

                                            Thanks man, have you replaced the brakes in your car yet?
                                            [Jan 01 21:16:06] Faken:most steady hand/10

                                            [Sep 23 14:27:56] Faken:i was focusing on dan's bum

                                              September 14, 2012, 01:15 AM #23

                                              CFMP RAblue Offline

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                                              Did my fronts for the second time this year :(
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                                                September 14, 2012, 08:21 AM #24

                                                Igor Offline

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                                                Originally posted by CFMP RAblue
                                                Did my fronts for the second time this year :(

                                                Me too. After 2-3 months they start to squeak again under super light pressure. Not sure what is going on.
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                                                  How To: Brake Pads and Rotors
                                                  « Reply #24 on: September 14, 2012, 08:21 AM »