Author Topic: Wire LED lights for DRL Need Help  (Read 1711 times)

July 16, 2014, 08:30 PM #0

pegcitygeek Offline

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Got a set of these bumper lights for an AP2 S2000:



They're all mounted up, but don't know how to do the wiring. I don't really know anything with wiring. I've searched around but not found a DIY or anything.

We want to wire them up to work as daytime running lights. I think if we wire them to the ignition, then it work would as DRL. Don't know if there's a spot in the fuse box we can tap into or some other wire we can use. Like I said, I'm :hurr: when it comes to wiring. We just want the lights to be on all the time as long as the car is running.

Anyone familiar with S2000s that could help?

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    Wire LED lights for DRL Need Help
    « on: July 16, 2014, 08:30 PM »

    July 16, 2014, 09:52 PM #1

    themikewoo Offline

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    July 17, 2014, 11:14 AM #2

    Winter Beater Offline

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    Wire them to ignition, or to accessory. Is there not factory DRL on the car already in the headlight? You could just tap off that wire at the headlight. Easier than running wire all through the engine bay/car.

    If there isn't a drl bulb in the headlight then your car probably isn't legal, and you could likely find something that is switched with ignition/accessory in the fuse box under the hood. There should be several circuits to choose from there.

    Make sure you add a fuse for these regardless of the circuit you are tapping off of. They're just LED, so a 2.5A or 5A will be more than enough.


      July 17, 2014, 11:18 AM #3

      themikewoo Offline

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      Daytime running lights came standard in all 2006+ Honda S2000's.

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        July 17, 2014, 12:07 PM #4

        Winter Beater Offline

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        Originally posted by themikewoo
        Daytime running lights came standard in all 2006+ Honda S2000's.

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        That's what I figured.

        So he needs to find a wiring diagram for the headlight or do some testing and figure out which wire is the DRL wire at the headlight, then tap off that to wire the fogs.


        Actually, that may not work lol... Depends... Are the DRL a separate bulb in the headlight, or are the low or high beam at reduced power? If there are a separate bulb it will work, if they are a low or high at reduced power it probably won't.

          July 17, 2014, 12:54 PM #5

          pegcitygeek Offline

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          Originally posted by themikewoo
          Daytime running lights came standard in all 2006+ Honda S2000's.

          It's a 2004 American S2000, and the way the previous owner wired them is so the headlights are on full all the time. We found where to disconnect it under the dash, so those DRL are disabled, but we don't know how to wire up these LED lights to do that instead. We didn't do the original DRL or know who did it so we don't know where the wiring goes, and figured it would be easier to just wire these ones up the way we want.
          Last Edit: July 17, 2014, 12:58 PM by pegcitygeek

            July 17, 2014, 12:55 PM #6

            pegcitygeek Offline

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            delete

              July 17, 2014, 01:33 PM #7

              themikewoo Offline

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              There is an Oem Honda module you couple buy that controls the drl.

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                July 17, 2014, 02:25 PM #8

                pegcitygeek Offline

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                Originally posted by themikewoo
                There is an Oem Honda module you couple buy that controls the drl.

                Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk



                I don't need a module. Just need to tap into the ignition somewhere, but not sure where to do this.

                A module would be needed to run the bulbs at say half wattage (like how some cars use high beams at half wattage for DRL). Also, the OEM way is not just a module but a different wiring harness. This is why we are going this route.

                  July 17, 2014, 02:40 PM #9

                  Winter Beater Offline

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                  Test fuses under the hood and find one that is switched with ignition. Those LED lights probably draw little power and could be tapped off any circuit with a 10A or larger fuse without issue.

                  You can get little pins that add a terminal off the fuse to connect your new wiring to. Probably the easiest way to do it.

                  That or take it to a shop. Tom @ Winnipeg HID could probably tackle it for you.

                    July 17, 2014, 02:48 PM #10

                    benz88 Offline

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                    Or connect them to the wire that the headlights were connected to. That  made them stay on all the time.
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                      July 17, 2014, 06:35 PM #11

                      pegcitygeek Offline

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                      Originally posted by benz88
                      Or connect them to the wire that the headlights were connected to. That  made them stay on all the time.

                      We found the wire under the dash but weren't able to trace where it goes into the engine bay. Not exactly easy to get under that dash either.

                      Originally posted by Winter Beater
                      Test fuses under the hood and find one that is switched with ignition. Those LED lights probably draw little power and could be tapped off any circuit with a 10A or larger fuse without issue.

                      You can get little pins that add a terminal off the fuse to connect your new wiring to. Probably the easiest way to do it.

                      That or take it to a shop. Tom @ Winnipeg HID could probably tackle it for you.

                      Will look for one of those pins.

                        July 23, 2014, 01:59 PM #12

                        Stoyka Offline

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                        Drew up a diagram for you.



                        So pretty simple. Youll need a 4 pin relay, a 5 pin relay, some wiring and a fuse box tap.The way this is set up is that your fogs will be on ALL the time except if you pull your ebrake handle up. Just like factory. You dont NEED a diode but its always a good idea to put one from the fuse box so you dont have any leak back. You wont need a in line fuse from the fuse box because it takes such little power to fire a relay. You should be able to get the relays from Canadian tire and probably a diode too.

                        Obviously you dont have to run a wire ALL the way to your battery. Battery just means battery source. You should be able to find spare battery, ignition and ground on your fuse box. Almost every car Ive worked on has had spares.

                        Hope this does it for ya

                        fuse box tap looks something like this.
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                          July 23, 2014, 02:50 PM #13

                          pegcitygeek Offline

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                          Awesome, thanks!

                          We got a 5 pack of those fuses to use.

                            July 23, 2014, 03:26 PM #14

                            Winter Beater Offline

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                            My only concern with that is the ~100mA (iirc they draw around that) draw the e-brake relay will have every time the ebrake is applied. Potential to drain the battery with the vehicle parked for extended periods of time. How long it will take to kill the battery, I have no idea.

                            Nice to have them turn off when the e-brake is on, but you could do away with that all together just having them switched from accy.

                              July 23, 2014, 09:09 PM #15

                              Stoyka Offline

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                              Originally posted by Winter Beater
                              My only concern with that is the ~100mA (iirc they draw around that) draw the e-brake relay will have every time the ebrake is applied. Potential to drain the battery with the vehicle parked for extended periods of time. How long it will take to kill the battery, I have no idea.

                              Nice to have them turn off when the e-brake is on, but you could do away with that all together just having them switched from accy.

                              I suppose that is true, but my STI has sat for weeks at a time with no issue. I cant imagine that one relay by itself would cause any kind of battery drainage considering how many other relays are part of the cars electrical system. Either way works, up to OP.
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                                July 23, 2014, 09:29 PM #16

                                Bmoney Offline

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                                I think you misunderstood the wiring diagram.  The relay on the right is using the parity pin - which means when the relay is at rest (coil not energized) its passing ground to the coil of the second relay, allowing the fogs to turn on if the IGN is on.  When parkbrake is pulled, it energizes the coil of relay 1, opening the ground circuit to relay two, killing the fogs.  Al's point is that with parkbrake up, that relay is energized all the time.  Keeping the coil closed consumes current. 

                                In a modern car, there are zero relays that rest energized. 

                                The diagram is inefficient - to correct it you should be putting IGN on both coils of both relays.  This means that if the key is on AND the parkbrake is up, the ground-cut is operable.  In English - with key on/engine running, if you pull the PB the fogs go out because relay one closes and "opens" the ground circuit to relay two.  The minute key is turned off, voltage drops from the coil of both relays, and they both fall to rest.  Causing zero current draw.  I assume the diode is to prevent backfeeding of the IGN circuit?  I'm not sure why there'd be backfeeding when IGN falls the coil falls too....but it doesn't hurt to be there.

                                The other error in the diagram is the size of the fuse - a 20a fuse is far too large.  Those leds will draw milliamps.  5a fuse is more than enough.  You don't want the wire to be the fuse, right?

                                Ultimately stealing this little current from a fused ACC or IGN circuit is harmless and would avoid the use of all these parts.  Key on, fogs on.  Key off, fogs off.  Simple.

                                bmoney

                                Last Edit: July 23, 2014, 09:32 PM by Bmoney

                                  July 24, 2014, 12:41 PM #17

                                  Stoyka Offline

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                                  Originally posted by Bmoney
                                  I think you misunderstood the wiring diagram.  The relay on the right is using the parity pin - which means when the relay is at rest (coil not energized) its passing ground to the coil of the second relay, allowing the fogs to turn on if the IGN is on.  When parkbrake is pulled, it energizes the coil of relay 1, opening the ground circuit to relay two, killing the fogs.  Al's point is that with parkbrake up, that relay is energized all the time.  Keeping the coil closed consumes current. 

                                  In a modern car, there are zero relays that rest energized. 

                                  The diagram is inefficient - to correct it you should be putting IGN on both coils of both relays.  This means that if the key is on AND the parkbrake is up, the ground-cut is operable.  In English - with key on/engine running, if you pull the PB the fogs go out because relay one closes and "opens" the ground circuit to relay two.  The minute key is turned off, voltage drops from the coil of both relays, and they both fall to rest.  Causing zero current draw.  I assume the diode is to prevent backfeeding of the IGN circuit?  I'm not sure why there'd be backfeeding when IGN falls the coil falls too....but it doesn't hurt to be there.

                                  The other error in the diagram is the size of the fuse - a 20a fuse is far too large.  Those leds will draw milliamps.  5a fuse is more than enough.  You don't want the wire to be the fuse, right?

                                  Ultimately stealing this little current from a fused ACC or IGN circuit is harmless and would avoid the use of all these parts.  Key on, fogs on.  Key off, fogs off.  Simple.

                                  bmoney



                                  Thanks for clarifying, youre def right about the switched ground relay being on IGN. The diagram was one I stole off google that some guy had made for a ford mustang and I quickly edited in paint before i took off for work. Luckily, with those fuse scab things if he put it on battery it would be as simple as changing the "fuse" from batter to IGN.

                                  The only reason I suggested doing the relay way was for the park brake lever set up. I always like to be able to turn my lights off. Either way I think the OP has more than enough info now on ways to wire up DRLs :D
                                  "I used to play COD on Xbox till I found out how many 12 year olds were fu**king my mom...and there were alot"

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                                    Wire LED lights for DRL Need Help
                                    « Reply #17 on: July 24, 2014, 12:41 PM »